The Ultimate Insider’s Guide to Mexico City by Bosco Sodi
The contemporary artist shares where to stay, eat, and find inspiration during Zona Maco
Mexico City is even more vibrant when Zona Maco returns each year. Set in the Citibanamex Centre, Latin America’s latest edition, which this year runs from February 4 through 8, features everything from contemporary art to antiques, and is destined to lure a truly international crowd of aesthetes who are drawn to the “City of Palaces” for its incredible mix of architecture, history, and cuisine.
For contemporary artist Bosco Sodi, who is known for his textural, large-scale paintings and sculptures, CDMX is home, and one with a flourishing arts scene that is growing from strength to strength. Here are just a few of the artist’s hyper-local favorite finds.
What makes Mexico City so unique and why is it so vibrant now?
Mexico City has always had an incredible creative energy and been a hub for artists—it’s just that more of the world is seeing it now. Historically, CDMX has been inexpensive, which has allowed the artistic community to thrive. In addition to incredible architecture, design, film, and art, we have world-class food with restaurants including Enrique Olvera’s Michelin-starred Pujol, drawing an international audience.
I live in a three-story villa in the Santa María la Ribera neighborhood—a neighborhood that still feels of the place, very authentic. It is a traditionally middle-class neighborhood with local shops and restaurants—including taco stands in the main plaza. The tacos al pastor are outstanding. This place feels like Condesa 20 years ago; full of local life and less touristy.
It’s also ten minutes from Casa Wabi Sabino, the not-for-profit exhibition space in the Atlampa neighborhood that opened in 2023. It’s a companion space to Casa Wabi Puerto Escondido on the Oaxacan coast that was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Tadao Ando. We have a Richard Long exhibition opening on January 31 to coincide with Zona Maco. The CDMX location—designed by Alberto Kalach—is a newer platform for emerging artists and will be exciting during the fair as well.
How has Zona Maco evolved—and what are you particularly excited about for this year?
Founded in 2002 to promote contemporary art in Latin America, Zona Maco has grown to include design, photography, and antiques. A lot of important galleries and collectors now come here—it used to only be tourists going to the beaches or looking at ruins. People now come to really experience the mix of cultures and history. I am particularly excited for the Richard Long opening at Casa Wabi, and I love to see the city—and Mexico in general—thriving.
What are you working on now?
Beyond Zona Maco, I have a busy year ahead with a show in Kyoto in May followed by the biennale in Korea in September. I will also have a solo show at Olney-Gleason in New York in October, followed by an exhibition in Jaipur in November.
Are there galleries and museums that you particularly love? Any shows that are noteworthy now?
I’m not as involved as I should be, but I always recommend the Museo Nacional de Antropología to visitors as it has the largest collection of Mexican artifacts anywhere in the world. This massive concrete building in Chapultepec Park was designed by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez and is an incredible sight, too. The Museo Jumex always has good shows as does the Galeria Hilario Galguera in Condesa where the work of artist Erik Saucedo in on view until January 23.
Where do you recommend visitors stay?
The Hotel Condesa DF is an art world hub that’s owned by Gruppo Habitas and has a great, relaxed feel with interiors by India Mahdavi. It sits between the Condesa and La Roma areas and is very central. For a historic hotel, I recommend the Camino Real Polanco. It was built for the 1968 Olympics and designed in a modern Mexican style by architect Ricardo Legoretta, and it’s conveniently close to Chapultepec Park, once the summer residence of the Aztec rulers.
Are there restaurants or bars that are a must?
The best restaurant in Mexico City is Nicos—a Mexican fusion establishment that’s frequented by chefs like Massimo Bottura and Rene Redzepi, who appreciate great food. Of course, the two-Michelin-star Pujol is a cultural experience as is Quentonil for the nine-course tasting menu by culinary creators Alejandra Flores and Jorge Vallejo.
After many years, Contramar in Condesa is still the best for grilled fish and seafood and for chef Gabriela Cámara’s incredible desserts like the fig tart and beautiful meringue cake. It’s a little too crowded for me now, but I recommend that every visitor go here. For great shrimp tacos, tostadas, and salsa I like El Parnita in Roma Norte. The mezcal is good, too.
Any day trips or excursions that shouldn’t be missed?
A visit to the pyramids is a must, especially the ancient city of Teotihuacan, about 25 miles northeast of the city, which includes the Pyramids of the Sun and Moon and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl. Another “must” is Casa Luis Barragán—the home and studio of the noted architect that is so popular you will need to book tickets right now!
La Cuadra San Cristobal—also by Barragan—is further away, but worth an excursion, too. These historic horse stables feature the same pink walls and geometric spaces, and it is now a hub for public art. The Espacio Escultórico (Sculpture Space) features enormous fields of volcanic stone and is also home to the Central Campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico. This place is beautiful and is definitely not on the typical tourist itinerary.