Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 presentation at Hôtel de Maisons during Paris Fashion Week.
Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Inside Loewe’s Fall 2025 Presentation at Paris Fashion Week
The Spanish label eschewed runways for a fanciful retrospective that journeys into the evocative depths of departing creative director Jonathan Anderson’s imagination
Is he staying or going? That seemed to be the question du jour during Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, which jettisoned a runway production for an elaborate mise en scène that creative director Jonathan Anderson described as a “scrapbook of ideas.” The format felt apropos as rumors swirled about his departure from the Spanish house to fellow LVMH maison Dior after more than a decade at the helm—fueled in part by the style provocateur posting what some perceived to be a goodbye highlight reel on Instagram the day before. No news was announced at the event, nor was he around to answer anyone’s burning questions about his plans. Instead, he let the depth and breadth of his vision speak for itself.
The presentation transformed multiple rooms at the stately 18th-century Hôtel de Maisons, once the residence of late couturier Karl Lagerfeld, into a veritable cabinet of Loewe curiosities. No models were in the building; pieces from the label’s latest men’s and women’s wear collections were instead draped on mannequins styled in animated poses. True to the scrapbook theme, they mingled with an eclectic curation of Loewe artworks and elements from post-pandemic shows and campaigns likely embedded in any fashion enthusiast’s memory. “A scrapbook contains things old and new that are gathered at random to be preserved as memories to serve as inspiration,” read the show notes. “Mementoes fill the pages.”
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Such memories, the notes continue, “play on Loewe codes and tropes such as trompe l’oeil, distorted scales and volumes—all filtered through art and artisanal craft.” Surreality quickly greeted visitors at the entrance courtesy of British artist Anthea Hamilton’s Giant Pumpkin No 2 (2022), a droopy Dalí-esque sculpture that appeared in the label’s Fall 2022 women’s runway show and campaign. Clambering up staircase banisters were inflatable acrobats, referencing Loewe’s jewelry collection. The giant apple from the Spring Summer 2025 campaign, shot by Juergen Teller, presided within the hotel’s drawing room. There were a trio of spiky vases by South African ceramicist Zizipho Poswa. A cluster of mushroom-shaped stools from Loewe’s show of inventive chairs at Milan Design Week in 2023 sprouted from a pretend garden.
Scrapbooks also informed the clothing and accessories, which focused on a tribute to midcentury pioneers Josef and Anni Albers through a collaboration with their eponymous foundation in Connecticut. The trailblazers of 20th-century abstract art—Josef’s geometric paintings, Anni’s graphic wall hangings and weavings—coalesced beautifully with Loewe codes. Nested color blocks from Josef’s Homage to the Square series metamorphosed the familiar forms of the label’s Puzzle bags, Amazona totes, and Flamenco clutches. The pixelated flecks of Anni’s experimental weavings brought graphic tactility to cocoon-like overcoats and hand-embroidered bags.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
The collection also featured an abundance of Loewe signatures from the past decade of Anderson’s creative stewardship, especially the notion of “soft architectures” being drawn on and around the body. Given how the Spanish label originated as a leather house, much of this was achieved with leather jackets that were spliced, draped, and elongated to beckon looks inside, rewarding close observation of the craft. Ditto for a sinuous trio of strapless dresses made of beaded organza strands in calming hues of lavender, evergreen, and coral. Other familiar wardrobe staples—shirts, knits, coats—were fused together to form blunt hybrids in a bold exploration of silhouette and scale.
Whether Anderson intended the mise en scène as a career retrospective remains to be seen. The biggest takeaway is how his creative instincts have continuously pushed the boundaries of a 21st-century fashion house into exciting new territory—launching the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize to shed light on under-recognized makers, dreaming up fanciful Studio Ghibli capsules—while steadfastly championing the brand’s origins in a leather workshop near Madrid.
See more highlights from the presentation below.
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Loewe Fall/Winter 2025. Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
Cover: Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2025 presentation at Hôtel de Maisons during Paris Fashion Week.
Photo: Courtesy of Loewe
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