Bulgari’s Polychroma Collection Fuses Vivid Gemstones with the House’s Storied Savoir Faire

Synonymous with bold, vibrant design infused with architectural and historical references, Bulgari has been inextricably linked to Technicolor gemstones, including rubies, sapphires, and rubellites, since the 1950s. But it is the emerald—adored by Elizabeth Taylor beginning a decade later with a 23-carat emerald brooch engagement gift from Richard Burton followed by a magnificent emerald-and-diamond necklace totaling 61 carats—that has become the maison’s signature stone.

Bulgari’s newest masterpieces build on this legacy with a range of rare gems in remarkable cuts and hues to create dynamic, wearable works of art. Titled Polychroma—a fusion of the Greek words poly (“multitude”) and chromia, meaning “varied color”—this offering from the Roman high jeweler includes five one-of-a-kind pieces known as the Gallery of Wonders, each with a distinct creative theme. The stunning assortment showcases 56 stones in 16 varied cuts to highlight the intrinsic beauty of the gems.

“Each stone used is a treasure not only in terms of excellent quality but also in character, personality, and rarity,” explains Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari jewelry creative director and gems buying director. “From the 241-carat emerald of the Magnus Emerald—the largest faceted stone ever set by Bulgari—to the majestic 123-carat Sri Lankan sugarloaf sapphire of the Cosmic Vault, each gem carries a story of singularity and excellence.”

Inspired by starry night skies and the domes that dot Rome’s cityscape, the Cosmic Vault necklace surrounds that massive, deep blue sapphire with more than 300 buff top sapphires and diamonds “to create a setting that feels light, luminous, and architectural, like a wearable constellation,” says Silvestri of the spectacular adornment, which took artisans 1,500 painstaking hours to create. Bulgari’s experts know how “to set a stone so that it glows from within—even the reverse is treated with precise care and artistry.”

In keeping with the ethereal theme, Bulgari’s Celestial Mosaic necklace offers a kaleidoscopic array of gems, from an extraordinary 131-carat fiery spinel from Tajikistan—the largest known faceted spinel of its kind—to a deep turquoise tourmaline and buff top emeralds that coalesce in exquisite symmetry. Reflecting the collection’s multicultural spirit, the creation takes inspiration from the eighth-century Tree of Life mosaic, a vast artwork found in Jericho’s Hisham’s Palace, its “leaves” rendered here in diamonds, onyx, emeralds, tourmaline, and topaz, to name just a few.

But not every piece pays homage to the skies: The Polychromatic Bloom, a symphony of radiant hues and smooth shapes, takes its cues from the garden. A 106-carat rubellite, a 55-carat peridot, and a 55-carat tanzanite are set in rose gold and surrounded by petals that seem to blossom on the wearer’s neck in joyful, thoroughly modern harmony. Another captivating treasure combines myriad style references. The Magnus Emerald necklace presents a monumental stone within an old-world yet decidedly updated setting. “We imagined a sautoir that would frame the stone with elegance and fluidity,” says Silvestri of the design process. “The result is a necklace that balances past and present: The classic rivière at the back recalls traditional high jewelry, while the boldness of the front reflects a contemporary, powerful vision. It was about creating structure yet allowing the design to remain alive on the skin.”

In a true celebration of heritage, Polychroma incorporates a new take on the iconic Trombino ring, which was originally designed as an engagement ring for Giorgio Bulgari’s fiancée, Leonilde, in 1932. The latest version, the Essence of Yellow ring, is anchored by an exceedingly rare, 45-carat, Asscher-cut, vivid yellow diamond. “This choice of cut was bold, unexpected, and striking,” explains Silvestri. “These decisions aren’t made for trend; it’s about finding the cut that best expresses the character of that gem.”

And while the Gallery of Wonders creations are the stars of the dazzling Polychroma assortment, the larger collection includes 250 equally opulent jewels and handbags, 60 of which Bulgari deems “millionaire pieces,” truly exceptional necklaces, rings, and watches that transcend typical high-jewelry norms with record-breaking gemstones, next-level craftsmanship, and inventive design. Whether paired with a simple white button-down shirt—as Anne Hathaway did with the Cosmic Vault necklace at this year’s Met Gala—or with a formal ball gown, the luminous adornments are future heirlooms to be revered for their dedication to color, culture, and timeless Italian craftsmanship.

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2025 Fall Issue under the headline “Chasing Rainbows.” Subscribe to the magazine.