An Insider’s Guide to Florence by Tyler Ellis

For American handbag designer Tyler Ellis, Florence is the perfect place to raise a family and find creative inspiration. The daughter of revered fashion designer Perry Ellis and TV writer-producer, Barbara Gallagher, Ellis has moved her young family from Los Angeles to Italy, where the culture, cuisine, and bountiful nature inform her timeless, elegant designs—ones that are favored by Rihanna, Margot Robbie, Cate Blanchett and so many other stylish women around the globe.

What first brought you to Florence and how does the city influence your work?

I’ve had an atelier here for 10 years and as we are raising a young child, we just fell more in love with this small, walkable city that feels more like a village. I was born and raised in L.A., so this city is definitely a change of pace! The other big cities in Italy, such as Milan, feel more western; there is a Nobu there, for example. In Florence, it is all about local trattorias where the owners know you and welcome you warmly. Rome is much busier and more grand, and while I do love to visit, for day-to-day life, I like feeling a bit more removed from the craziness of the world. In terms of creativity, Florence is all about artisans and craft, so it is perfect for inspiring my accessories—there is beauty and history at every turn.

Do you have favorite places for art and design? Are there any hidden gems?

The Palazzo Strozzi is wonderful for its mix of Florentine Renaissance architecture with contemporary art. A recent show of work by the artist KAWS was so well done, and the latest exhibition—“Rothko in Florence” (March 14–Auguest 23)—explores the artist’s special affinity for the city. We love the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens, which are near our home, for the green space and also the rich art collection. Of course, there are churches everywhere, but Santo Spirito in Oltrarno is among the most spectacular. With architecture by Brunelleschi and with a Filippino Lippi altarpiece, this church is a Renaissance icon. There is the lovely, small, deconsecrated Santa Monaca Church, where we like to go for concerts and a glass of wine—a very local experience!

Where do you recommend visitors stay now?

We are big fans of the Hotel Lungarno, which is a boutique property very near our home and where we like to meet for drinks, have meetings, and so forth. For something more grand, the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze is spectacular—it’s set within the 15th-century Palazzo della Gherardesca as well as a 16th-century convent—and it has a pool, which is great for kids and a real rarity in Florence. The recently opened Collegio alle Querce, which is part of the Auberge Collection, is exquisite; it’s set in a former school and offers a lovely escape from the busy city center. We go here for brunch every Sunday, and the food is excellent, too.

Just a bit further on the outskirts, in Fiesole, you’ll find Il Salviatino, which feels like a very private, very luxurious home stay. And everyone is excited about the reopening of Villa San Michele, a Belmond Hotel—also in Fiesole, overlooking the city–that’s set in a former 15th-century Franciscan monastery and is renowned for its façade that’s attributed to Michelangelo. The grounds, the views, and the pool are all just beautiful.

Are there restaurants, cafes and bars that are highlights for you?

So many! Atelier de’Nerli is a favorite with its chic Parisian vibe, but it’s still very much a trattoria. They know us well, and their tortino Carciofi—an open-face egg dish with artichokes—is delicious. Cinghiale Bianco was mentioned by Stanley Tucci, so it’s very popular, and the atmosphere and food are both very traditional. We also love L’Arte di Dory in Oltrarno, it’s perfect with kids; the food is fabulous—all cooked by Mama—and the porcini pasta is a must. Cammillo is another classic, and the totino with porcini is outstanding—but book ahead! Another tiny and popular spot is Trattoria Sostanza, where the butter chicken is legendary. And of course, gelato is a thing, and Gelateria della Passera is among the best shops for stracciatella, pistachio, and hazelnut varieties.

Are there under-the-radar, artisanal shops or boutiques that are particularly Florentine?

There are so many great vintage shops here, including C’est Chic for well-curated Gucci and Chanel finds, and Flair for furniture, art, and sculpture, as well as limited edition pieces. Aquazzura has beautiful ceramics, as does the Gucci specialty store that’s part of the museum, which is also wonderful. For a healthy pick-me-up, I like Raw Vegan for ginger turmeric shots and smoothies, and Sant’Ambrogio is a covered market that is full of all kinds of Tuscan produce, cheeses, and more.

Are there day trips or diversions that are worth the drive?

We love to leave the city on the weekends, and Forte dei Marmi is a popular destination. We also like visiting the Antinori winery in Chianti, as well as Castello di Volpaia, which is owned by a mother and her children. You can see the whole winemaking process and then have lunch at the owner’s home, which is full of all kinds of artifacts. Another nice detour is Castiglion del Bosco—a beautiful hotel in the Tuscan countryside where you can also see the winemaking process. This summer, we are trying a new spot on the coast—Punta Ala—where you can take a boat over to Elba for even more beach exploration.