21 Extraordinary Jewels by JAR are Headed for Christie’s

Rosenthal is the only living jeweler to have been honored with such a comprehensive retrospective. Born in the Bronx, he opened his Parisian studio in 1977 and soon developed a signature style that would come to be appreciated by an elite network of private clients. When the Met exhibition introduced the genius of JAR’s sculptural creations, lavish applications of pavé gemstones, and iconic floral, foliate and vegetal motifs to an expanded (and approving) audience, it cemented Rosenthal’s status as one of the most collectible—and coveted—jewelry designers in modern history.

And some of his most famous clients would agree: The fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg has called Rosenthal “the Fabergé our time” and actress Ellen Barkin, who offloaded a dazzling compendium of JAR pieces in a 2006 Christie’s sale, compared him to Matisse.

These plaudits partially explain why, among certain collectors, the chance to acquire a JAR piece at auction is typically met with great excitement. There is also an element of scarcity driving the fervor: Producing a mere 70 to 80 pieces each year, JAR’s jewelry is highly prized, yet hard to access. So when pieces come to auction, they tend to be offered in small assortments that burst forth (and recede) as quickly as fireworks. And most go on to fetch millions. As for the Christie’s Geneva JAR sale, the 21 pieces have a combined estimate of $3 million. Each was acquired by the original owner in the early 2000s and 2010s and none have ever come to auction before, adding an extra layer of allure to the prospect of owning one of them.

Christie’s and JAR jewels have enjoyed an ongoing synergy—or what you might also call a lucky streak—since 1984, when it sold the first JAR jewel ever to come to auction: a pair of ear pendants with amethysts, sapphires, natural pearls and diamonds. Since then, Christie’s has sold approximately two thirds of all JAR pieces coming to market, including the piece which holds the record price for any JAR jewel sold at auction: a ruby and diamond Camelia brooch from 2003 that sold for $4,323,240 in 2012 (four times its low estimate in the charitable Christie’s Geneva auction Jewels for Hope: The Collection of Mrs. Lily Safra). Christie’s has also sold the Top 10 JAR jewels at auction by value to date. Come May 14, could these records be smashed in Geneva? Watch and wait. And set your alarm if you’re having a go at it—bidding starts at 9 a.m. ET sharp.