Installation view, “Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.”
Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

Hamish Bowles Puts Personal Collection of Yves Saint Laurent on View in Stunning Exhibition

The monumental display, on view through January 2026, marks the first time the museum has opened itself up to someone with no direct link to the designer

The Yves Saint Laurent Museum has once again pulled out all the stops with a new exhibition about the couturier, this time with a twist. The just-opened “Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection” is an exceptional look at one of the largest private collections of fashion, carte blanche to one collector and his laser-sharp eye. This is the first time the museum has opened itself to someone with no direct link to Yves Saint Laurent, but who has a unique point of view about the designer and his work.

Hamish Bowles is a world-renowned fashion historian and critic. He is also the curator and collector of a vast collection of 20th-century fashion—one of the most important in private hands today. With approximately 150 pieces by Yves Saint Laurent in his holdings, a selection of 55 pieces are now on view through January 2026 in Marrakech.

Selections from the personal collection of Hamish Bowles.

The collection features pieces from Rive Gauche and ready to wear. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

Silk ensemble from a 1969 haute couture collection.

A silk ensemble from the 1960s. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

In the words of Madison Cox, President of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, “For decades now, I’ve known of Hamish’s deep passion for fashion, his vast expertise, unique eye, knowledge of the craft of making clothes and his ever-expanding collection… including of course, Yves Saint Laurent.”

“I think it very interesting to delve into the mind of a collector who often brings their own passions, enthusiasm if not fetishes when it comes to collecting,” Cox tells Galerie.

The exhibition highlights three key periods of YSL, including the early years for Christian Dior 1958-1960.

The exhibition highlights three key periods of YSL, including the early years for Christian Dior 1958-1960. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

To truly understand “The Hamish Bowles Collection,” it is important to go back to the beginning. “My collection started when I used to go with my mother to junk shops and antique shops,” explains Bowles. “I was 6 or 7 at the time. I would buy some pieces that were in my price range… there were guinea purses and smocked caps, that sort of thing.” The collecting bug had taken hold and by his tween years, he was fascinated with fashion. “I bought my first British Vogue when I was 10!” He bought his first YSL—a couture dress, no less—in 1969.

Installation view, “Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.”

Installation view. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

To fully express the beauty and importance of this collection, Bowles collaborated with Anglo-Irish opera director Patrick Kinmouth, more known for his stage and live performances than museum shows. The exhibition highlights three key periods of YSL: the early years for Christian Dior 1958-1960; couture from the 1960s to the 1990s; and the genius of Rive Gauche and ready-to-wear.

This is not a retrospective nor a backward-facing show, but more of an invitation to immerse oneself in the world and passion of a collector who wants visitors to “see Saint Laurent as a designer who was not only creating fantasy and razzle-dazzle, but also had a keen eye for modernity.”

The exhibition includes four decades worth of selections.

The exhibition includes four decades worth of selections. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

The exhibition features 55 pieces.

The exhibition features 55 pieces. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

“As a collector, I have been drawn more to the pieces that signaled his strength as a designer, who could allow his women to feel full of confidence, some low-key pieces that are wonderful on the body, for instance,” says Bowles. “Yves was in the vanguard of fashion, always experimenting with something new, but his clothes always are essentially beautiful, capturing the mood, in the air,” Bowles explains. And he did it, with elements of glamour and mystery.

See more images below: 

Exhibition selections from Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.

Selections from the exhibition. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

“Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.”

“Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.” Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection

The exhibition will remain on view through January 2026. Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

Cover: Installation view, “Yves Saint Laurent: The Hamish Bowles Collection.”
Photo: Marco Cappelletti, 2025

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