Simone Rocha

The rising-star fashion designer culls inspiration from the works of fine artists like Louise Bourgeois and Lucien Freud

Person in a white ruffled dress poses confidently indoors with blurred clothing displays in the background.
Simone Rocha. Photo: Courtesy of Simone Rocha

In the hands of many other designers, the layered ruffles, puffy sleeves, and floral embroideries found in Simone Rocha’s spring 2020 collection could appear cloyingly sweet. But culled from the imagination of the rising-star creative, those traditional elements encapsulate a feminist power that has attracted fashion-forward stars like Chloë Grace Moretz and Rihanna.

For her namesake line, Rocha finds inspiration in museums and galleries. “Roni Horn, Louise Bourgeois, Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud—there is a weight and a pull for me into their work,” says Rocha, who was invited by Hauser & Wirth to create a limited-edition series of earrings drawn from Bourgeois’s Spiral Woman and 1995 Untitled sculptures.

Model in a black textured dress with white accessories walking on a wooden runway, showcasing high fashion design.
A model on the runway of Simone Rocha’s spring 2020 collection. Victor Virgile/Getty Images

Additionally, she crafts a line of furnishings, and her ateliers in London, New York, and Hong Kong are filled with a masterful mix displayed in a gallery-like setting. “My collections stem from different emotions, thoughts, stories, inspirations, and it can sometimes translate beyond clothes,” says Rocha.

Recommended: Simone Rocha Reinterprets Louise Bourgeois’s Most Iconic Works

Model wearing an intricate, nature-themed avant-garde dress with layered textures, walking on a wooden runway.
A model on the runway of Simone Rocha’s spring 2020 collection. Victor Virgile/Getty Images

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2020 Spring Issue under the headline Creative Minds. Subscribe to the magazine.