Creative Minds

Feng J.

The Shanghai designer crafts extraordinary jewels inspired by art and nature

By Lucy Rees

March 10, 2020

Close-up of hands crafting an ornate jeweled brooch with colorful gemstones and a central orange stone. — Feng.J’s “Red Peony” brooch from her “Garden of Impressionism” collection. Photo: Courtesy of Feng.J

Shanghai designer Feng creates dazzling, artful bijoux that masterfully blend ancient Chinese tradition with European craftsmanship, including a setting that makes the stones appear to float. One of her signature Ginkgo brooches, for instance, is sprinkled with an impressionistic array of double-rose-cut yellow sapphires, chrysoberyls, and white diamonds, set in a shape that recalls the flora of her hometown.

Creating just two collections per year for her brand, Feng.J, she first sketches out the designs before carving wax molds. The major pieces are then finished in an atelier on the Place Vendôme in Paris and can take more than a year to complete. “My inspiration can come from anywhere: travel, nature, cinema, books,” says Feng. “I liken my process to painting with gemstones.”

Person sitting at a desk with jewelry, awards on the wall, and open books. — Jewelry designer Feng. Courtesy of Feng.J

Red angular ring adorned with scattered pink gemstones on a white background. — “Coeur Rouge” bangle. Courtesy of Feng.J

In addition to launching a contemporary art-inspired jewelry line (including the shown lacquer cuff with rubies and spinels), she plans to open a workshop in Shenzhen, China, that would employ artisans from Paris to teach French techniques to local talents.