Designed to Travel: An Inside Look at Lake Como’s Passalacqua
Interiors maven Christine Gachot and her husband, John, open up their travel diaries and share little-known secrets about a spectacular getaway
Sometimes it is difficult not to arrive at a hotel with impossibly high expectations. Social media has a way of turning certain destinations into fantasies long before you ever set foot on the property. After hearing countless wonderful stories from friends and seeing so many breathtaking images of Passalacqua, I had almost prepared myself for disappointment—for the reality to somehow fall short of the dream.
Instead, the opposite happened entirely.
Making an entrance…
Lake Como is just an hour and a half drive from Milan, yet it feels worlds away. From the seductive bustle of the city to the calming charm of the lake, we couldn’t have picked a better spot to cap off our trip.
As we turned down the pebble driveway, entering the hotel’s historic iron gate (connected to a 12th-century church tower), the scene felt instantly welcoming. Passalacqua certainly lives up to its reputation as “the jewel of the lake.” Extensive manicured gardens, a picture-perfect pool, a clay tennis court, enticing alfresco dining, and architecture that’s nothing short of magnificent—all of it made even more special by the countless iconic view corridors overlooking Lake Como.
As welcoming as the property felt upon arrival, we really felt welcome once we met Sophie, who was introduced to us as “the most thoughtful hostess.” She’s genuine, gracious, and effortlessly charming. She offered to give us a tour of the property, bring us to visit our room, or settle in for lunch on the main terrace overlooking the gardens and, of course, the lake. We began, naturally, with wine, lunch, and a view so breathtaking it felt unreal!
Rest your head…
We had the pleasure of staying in the villa, an 18th-century neoclassical residence originally built for Count Andrea Lucini Passalacqua. It is the main house on the property, which also has some of the hotel’s 24 suites in the Palazz and Casa al Lago buildings. The villa is “the heart of Passalacqua,” balancing the grandeur of an historic Italian villa with the warmth and intimacy of a private home. It is the perfect setting for a truly opulent yet deeply personal experience—one that feels more like staying in an extraordinary private home than a typical luxury hotel.
Our suite, The Agnes, consists of two expansive rooms: an ornate, manor-sized living room and an equally grand bedroom. The walls were adorned by deep terracotta and soft blue, with intricately painted stucco ceilings that made getting out of bed even more challenging. But once I did, I was greeted by morning views of Lake Como from the marble-wrapped, wood-floored bath suite. It was a view I’d never get used to, a surprise every day. Every detail was thoughtfully considered. John spent nearly an hour poring over hand-drawn collateral materials, including maps of the gardens, stationery, and the thoughtfully curated offerings of activities. We put on music, opened the windows, and let the breeze drift easily through the rooms.
Our dear friends Will Meyer and Grey Davis, staying across the lake, kindly sent a bottle of champagne that was chilling in our room when we arrived. Their note read, “Congratulations on your collection!” It marked the beginning of many toasts and celebratory moments throughout our stay.
Don’t miss…
We left the property only once during our stay at Passalacqua, and that was for a boat tour of Lake Como. The perfect setting to share the champagne with our friends Will and Grey. From out on the lake, we were given another opportunity to appreciate the majesty of the tiered gardens. From the smallest sensory pleasures like the scent of the roses, to the monumental scale of the towering cypress trees, every inch of the property invites admiration. There are unexpected palms, flourishing vegetable gardens that supply the kitchen, and pathways that are designed for wandering and discovery. We studied, measured, photographed, and quietly dreamed of one day having gardens so impossibly perfect.
Naturally, the floral program is another unforgettable detail. Flowers are everywhere at the hotel, arranged in beautiful glass vases and ceramics throughout the property. We were excited to visit the floral studio, say hello, and participate in a flower-cutting experience. The lead florist always seemed to be in motion, quietly assembling fresh arrangements with an effortless sense of beauty and restraint that revealed itself in every composition.
The pool, nestled into the first tier of gardens, felt calm and serene. The umbrella and awning game is especially strong at Passalacqua. I soaked up the fun colors and patterns as I soaked up some sun poolside. Countless pockets of privacy unfold naturally throughout the various terraces, with delightful seating arrangements offering moments of relaxation. We quickly discovered that no matter where we were or what we needed, every request was met with a gracious, “Of course!”
Restored underground tunnels that were once used to transport goods from the lake up to the villa still connect the property today. Softly illuminated, they can be explored on foot and serve as another reminder of the site’s rich history. The spa treatments were exceptional; the spa itself equally memorable. Quiet treatment rooms occupy the upper level, while the sauna and steam room are tucked dramatically within the cavernous tunnels below, leading out to the lap pool that is housed in a glass greenhouse overlooking a gardened terrace and Lake Como.
There is a constant sense of discovery at Passalacqua. Guests are encouraged to explore, taste, and experience. After long walks through the amazing landscape, we’d pass the open kitchen and were often invited to “come have a taste!” The generosity felt genuine and instinctive rather than performative.
Come hungry, come thirsty…
I’m no foodie, but Chef Viviana Varese absolutely has a fan in me! She was on property throughout our stay, checking in on us often, which only deepened the sense of warm hospitality that defines Passalacqua. Chef’s locally sourced fish was my go-to order, alongside a pesto pasta that I ate every day we were there. Even the bread felt like a new discovery—so simple and so perfect you could almost taste each ingredient. John, more adventurous than I, sampled nearly everything on the menu, but his favorite was spaghetti with clams.
We found ourselves developing a rhythm: trying something new at every meal while also, inevitably, returning to a few beloved dishes. Dinner was always followed by gelato—homemade, impossibly creamy, and nothing short of scrumptious! And of course, there was wine. Capichera Santigaìni Vermentino was our bottle of choice. We were celebrating, after all. Endless toasts became part of the rhythm of our stay. Long lunches stretched into the evening; glasses raised against the backdrop of Lake Como.
That extra mile…
At Passalacqua there was always someone greeting us, walking by with a smile, arranging something special, accommodating requests with grace—quietly ensuring our stay was absolutely perfect. What struck me was how natural it all felt, never forced, never overly formal, genuine hospitality at its highest level. I often noticed familiar guests arriving for lunch or dinner, clear devotees of the hotel. Sophie would rush to greet them with open arms. Everyone seemed to know her, and thankfully, by the end of our stay, so did we. She’s married to another member of the team, just as charming and thoughtful, and together they embody the warmth that defines the Passalacqua experience. Every team member was present, kind to us, and, just as importantly, kind to one another. It felt like we’d been welcomed into someone’s extraordinary home.
The takeaway…
“Bucket List” is a phrase I use often, and Passalacqua more than earns its place on one. Make it part of your travel dreams. It will not disappoint. If anything, you’ll leave feeling deeply fulfilled. What makes Passalacqua so unforgettable is its balance of epic and simple pleasures. The grandeur of the villa and gardens paired with a delicious spoonful of gelato at a perfectly set table. A breeze drifting through an open window that looks out to incredible views of Lake Como. A warm greeting from someone who considerately remembers your name.
My experience at Passalacqua entirely recalibrated my standards for hospitality. It’s the kind of place that lingers with you long after you leave, and one that will be very difficult to match.
Next time…
Big plans were discussed during that boat ride across Lake Como. We imagined returning after another Salone with a larger group, experiencing Passalacqua together—exploring the gardens through the lens of designers and architects. How wonderful it would be to meet casually by the pool, dress up for long dinners, and tour nearby museums and villages.
Next time, John and I hope to share the experience with more friends. This is not the kind of place that should be kept to oneself; it is one that practically insists on being shared.