An Insider’s Guide to Los Angeles During Frieze Week

The city has been through so much—fires and floods—how are things feeling now?

L.A. feels compassionate, bonded and very friendly right now. Everyone knows someone who has been affected by tragedy; these fires had no boundaries and burned without discrimination, so rich and poor from the Pacific Palisades to Altadena were all hurt. With the recent floods, it does feel a bit like L.A. can’t get a break.

What are your favorite parts of this vast city?

I think the secret to L.A. is understanding that it’s six separate cities stitched together. I’m an east side guy and lived in Silver Lake for many years, so that’s my center. I also like Highland Park, Eagle Rock, and Pasadena.  Eagle Rock has a hipster vibe like Williamsburg in Brooklyn and is very foodie.

Are there art and design gems that shouldn’t be missed?

The Norton Simon Museum in Pasadena is a crown jewel of small museums. And on my “Top 5” list of things to do in L.A. Everyone knows the LACMA and the Hammer Museum, but this one is a treasure.  The whole Chinatown area is interesting, and particularly Hauser & Wirth; the scale on which they committed to the arts in L.A. is breathtaking. The Night Gallery has two locations and they are an incredible platform for emerging L.A. artists.

Also worth seeing: Jutta Koether at Reena Spaulings Fine Art; Georgia Gardner Gray at Regen Projects (opening March 1); programming at New Theater Hollywood; Valerie Keane at Gaylord Fine Arts (an apartment gallery run by artists); and Issy Wood at Michael Werner Gallery Beverly Hills. In terms of museums, I also recommend visiting Hollyhock House, The Huntington Library & Gardens, The Museum of Jurassic Technology, and The Center for Land Use Interpretation in Culver City.

Any stores that you recommend for furniture and design?

Galerie Half is a vintage and antique gallery that focuses on midcentury furniture and design. It has a sort of American Axel Vervoordt look with a mix of decorative arts. Another great gallery of antiques is Blackman Cruz—I took François Catroux here and he loved it. In addition to antiques, they have access to all kinds of artisans and commission things. I have commissioned pieces by Mike Diaz through them. This unique gallery sits at the intersection of art and furniture.

What are some architectural highlights?

The Lovell Health House by Richard Neutra was built between 1927-1929, and while it’s a private home, you can view it from a nearby hiking trail which is so worthwhile. Also, John Lautner’s Harvey House high above Hollywood and the iconic Casa de Cadillac (1949) car dealership building in Sherman Oaks are both worth a detour. A’maree’s, a clothing store in Newport Beach is a day trip from L.A., but 110% worth it. If I told you that the most beautiful store in the world was in southern California, would you believe me? Go see for yourself. And yes, it is about the architecture!

And what about best restaurants?

The Capri Club in Eagle Rock is a favorite as is Queen Street for the excellent raw bar. The secret living room of the east side is Hippo in Highland Park for Italian food. For Frieze-related dining, Giorgio Baldi, at the edge of the Palisades, serves the best Italian in town and you might see anyone from Rob Reiner to Rihanna. Anything can happen here! I also like Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills. The L.A. one has a great gangster vibe and Gagosian is just next door and they have excellent Frieze programming. The two best Japanese restaurants in L.A. are Asanebo—an unassuming, very expensive place on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, and Osawa in Old Town Pasadena. It’s mind-blowingly good. Also in Pasadena, Stoney Point is the place for sand dabs and it has to be the only place in L.A. where people wear jackets for dinner. It’s cult-y and ironic.

What do you think of the Santa Monica Airport location for Frieze?

It’s brilliant. It’s a super cool space and there are all kinds of private hangars where they stage exhibitions throughout the year. This was where they held the private Tony Duquette sales.

Any day trips or detours you recommend?

The Coral Casino in Santa Barbara—it’s America’s version of the Hotel du Cap and well worth a visit. The renovation was done by Peter Marino, and it just remains a landmark gem.

What makes L.A. so unique?

It’s very exotic and that’s hard to find in moneyed cities now. L.A. seems immune because what’s cool is youth and talent. I love and respect its resistance to tradition. It’s all about the new and unexpected and it’s the perfect place for artists to emerge. It’s truly culturally meritocratic.