An Insider’s Guide to St. Moritz by Cora Sheibani
The Zurich-born jeweler shares where to stay, eat, and find inspiration during NOMAD
For Zurich-born, London-based jeweler Cora Sheibani, there is no place more creatively energizing than the Engadin Valley. This is particularly true from February 12-15, when the ninth Swiss edition of NOMAD takes place in and around St. Moritz. For part-time resident Sheibani, the dramatic alpine setting is ideal for the artists, gallerists, and global collectors who converge here to see a diverse body of work against snow-capped peaks. Here are a few of her local finds for art-lovers and outdoor enthusiasts alike…
What makes St. Moritz so special?
Fundamentally, it’s a stunning valley. Because of its location, the town attracts visitors from Milan, Zurich, and Munich, and the consistent snow in winter and beautiful lakes in summer appeal to a year-round audience. This town has always attracted aesthetes; Nietzsche, for example, came to this serene, expansive space to write, and Jean-Michel Basquiat painted here in the 1980s. There is incredible light, lichen on the trees—a testament to the clean mountain air—and because it’s slightly difficult to get to, it isn’t over-touristed.
How has NOMAD evolved over the years?
Founded by Giorgio Pace and Nicolas Bellavance-Lecompte in 2017, NOMAD has brought incredible art and design into the valley over the years. The snowy backdrop adds to the excitement in town, and there are always things to do in addition to the main site—in this year’s case, at the Villa Beaulieu.
Are there galleries or installations that are interesting now?
At the Kulm Hotel, in the center of town, there is a large-scale Carsten Höller artwork—Pink Mirror Carousel—on the ice rink, which offers an immersive experience. In terms of galleries, there are so many, including Vito Schnabel Gallery and Galerie Karsten Greve in St. Moritz, and Von Bartha in nearby S-chanf. There is a Glenn Ligon show currently on view, as well as an Alberto Giacometti exhibition of landscape paintings. Gallerist Andrea Caratsch is from the Engadin and always has interesting shows, such as “Rolf Sachs—Allegro,” a unique collection of the artist’s paintings.
Also on view is Michelangelo Pistoletto’s first-ever solo exhibition in St. Moritz. It includes six new works—five of which are mirror pieces from the series “Color and Light” and “Black and Light”—as well as a small silkscreen on metal that references the Renaissance masterpiece Creation of Adam by Michelangelo Buonarotti. The works are on view in a Protestant church, which adds to the meditative experience.
Where do you recommend visitors stay in the area?
Suvretta House, on the edge of town, is a great family hotel with a beautiful spa, and you can ski and ski out. The Kulm Hotel and the Palace Hotel are both storied, old-world hotels with a great sense of history. For a four-star property in the center of town, there is the Crystal Hotel, while in nearby Pontresina, you’ll find the five-star Grand Hotel Kronenhof. Hotel Soldanella is a three-star property with a smaller feel, while the Hotel Castell in Zuoz has Skyspace Piz Uter by James Turrell on property.
Are there restaurants that you recommend to visitors?
I tend to favor locally owned places like Café Belmont, which is the place to meet for a coffee or a drink before dinner, throughout the seasons. There is the iconic Chesa Veglia for authentic pizzas, and Veltlinerkeller—“the valley cellar”—where the homemade ravioli and pizzoccheri are the best. For lunch with a view, there is Piz Nair on Corviglia, or for the rue St. Moritz scene, there is Paradiso. It is torturous for me, but it certainly offers great people-watching. I love the Corviglia Club because it is quieter and just very easy.
Are there shops that are specific to St. Moritz?
There is a seasonal concept store called Super Mountain Market that I highly recommend for its curation of everything from Lobmeyr glasses to one-off vases and jewelry. I did a pop-up here, and it is the place to buy gifts and decorative objects in town. For cashmere, Lamm is the best, and ski things can be found at Ender Sport. If you need additional gear—goggles, gloves, equipment—Skiservice Corvatsch is a one-stop resource with several locations.
Are there day trips that are worth a detour?
I recommend a trip to the small village of Susch, in between St. Moritz and Davos, for the contemporary Muzeum Susch, which is set in a former brewery and monastery and always has exciting installations. The artist Not Vital has an incredible castle— Schloss Tarasp—that is open to the public and offers a wonderful combination of art and architecture in the sweeping landscape. I always recommend taking a horse-drawn carriage up the car-free Fex Valley, or a 7-km sledge trip from Preda to Bergün, which is fun for all ages. You’ll also find the Hotel Sonne here and their chestnut cake is outstanding. The Nietzsche House in Sils-Maria is also a lovely area to walk.
Are there any Zurich highlights—coming or going to St. Moritz—that you’d like to share?
For grandeur on the lake, there is the family-owned Baur au Lac hotel, and for a very local stay, I recommend Signau House & Garden, which is more of a B&B and feels like you’re staying in someone’s home. I love the Kunsthaus, and my sister’s gallery, Lele Projects, always highlights interesting emerging artists. For a Zurich classic, Restaurant Kronenhalle, with its artistic history and signature veal with rösti, is a must. In the heart of Old Town, you’ll find the Kindli Hotel, and its restaurant is very authentic and cozy as well.