In Umbria, Medieval Estates Are Transformed Into Luxury Hotels
Live like royalty while discovering Tuscany's lesser-known neighboring region
It feels like everybody is traveling to Italy these days. So to enjoy an authentic Italian experience without throngs of crowds, you have to venture a lot further off the beaten path. Some advice? Skip Tuscany in favor of its lesser-known-but-equally-beautiful neighboring region—where several hotels and resorts have been created inside imposing medieval structures spread across the dramatic mountainous landscape.
Umbria is more rugged and less accessible to tourists than other parts of the country, and still relatively off the radar for many international visitors. But the region is slowly becoming more popular as a quieter alternative to Tuscany, Amalfi, and other overrun destinations, thanks in part to its wealth of atmospheric historic buildings set in spectacular sprawling estates. Here, guests can stay in luxury surroundings and pretend to be Italian nobility for as long as they desire, without having to share the experience with too many others.
Several high-end properties in the region have placed particular focus on wellness, and include state-of-the-art spa facilities within the alluringly mysterious settings or overlooking the picturesque countryside. There’s also an overarching emphasis on home-grown produce, local craftsmanship, and a sense of regional pride. For day trips from these remote rural hideaways, Umbria’s capital Perugia, as well as smaller cities like Orvieto, Gubbio, and Assisi, each has its own fascinating history, cultural institutions, archeological sites, and unique character.
If you’re ready for your getaway to Italy’s new high-end hospitality hotspot, we’ve picked three impressive hotels in a castle, a count’s estate, and monastery that have each been turned into luxury accommodation.
Reschio
It doesn’t get much more “fairytale” than staying in a 1,000-year-old castle. Presiding over 3,700 acres of rolling countryside, the imposing 10th-century structure and its varied outbuildings were painstakingly restored and modernized for five-star clientele by the estate’s owners Count Benedikt—who happens to be a trained architect—and Donna Nencia Bolza. When it opened in 2021, the Reschio hotel instantly flooded social media feeds, but it’s by no means an influencer haunt—likely due to its $1,000 per night starting room rate. The property’s money shot is from behind the oval-shaped heated outdoor swimming pool, which reflects the Castello’s striking rotunda and the dramatic umbrella pines around its periphery.
From a church that hosts yoga classes and a watchtower serving poolside fare, to a glass-house Palm Court lobby bar for cocktails and a cozy Boot Room for fireside drinks—there’s a host of beautifully appointed spaces in which guests can lounge and relax. The Ristorante Al Castello serves a cornucopia-style breakfast buffet and exquisitely presented a-la-carte dishes for dinner, while the Ristorante Alle Scuderie on the other side of the property offers up pizzas for lunch on top of an extensive all-day menu. Both these common areas and the capacious guest suites—most of which are housed within the castle walls—are outfitted with bespoke furniture designed by Count Benedikt as part of his B.B. for Reschio line. These pieces are all made locally, and available in the U.S. via platforms including 1st Dibs and Artemest.
The estate has a distinctly equestrian sensibility, with 32 purebred Spanish horses housed and trained on site that guests can take out on guided hacks around the vast property. Other activities to indulge in include truffle foraging, wine and olive oil tasting, and lakeside picnics during the summer. In the atmospheric spa, a candlelit bath house features a three-storey rain shower in a former cheese storage tower, and a huge private treatment room hosts massages, facials, foot scrubs. and more to the soundtrack of a crackling fire and Gregorian chanting—a welcome departure from panpipes—for a unique relaxation experience.
Borgo dei Conti Resort
Many of Italy’s most impressive hotels occupy renovated “borghi”—medieval villages or hamlets built up around fortified dwellings. In Umbria, the recently revamped Borgo dei Conti Resort, a Relais & Chateaux resort that’s also part of The Hospitality Experience collection, is spread over a cluster of historic buildings and named for the Count that once resided in the main villa. This impressive structure features crenelated parapets, pointed turrets, and decorative frescos under the eaves, which set the tone for the 40 rooms and suites inside.
Guests enter the estate via a grand stone gateway and a snaking uphill drive through the forest, before arriving at a grand forecourt surrounded by terraced gardens. Through the hotel’s main entrance and reception area, a courtyard at the center of the building offers a striking spot for enjoying drinks and bites al fresco. Two restaurants: a fine-dining option in the former great hall, Cedri, and the more laid-back Osteria del Borgo both serve cuisine by chef Emanuele Mazzella that revolves around local produce, including honey made on the estate.
The hotel’s two largest suites are also named after the Count and Contessa, and can be connected to accommodate larger parties. The former boasts soaring, ornately painted ceilings and a stunning freestanding copper bathtub, while the latter features antique frescoes, a 17th-century cast-iron fireplace, and access to the mansion’s library. All designed by Spagnulo & Partners Architectural Studio as an homage to Umbria, several terrace suites each have ample private outdoor space, and the smaller guest rooms are artfully decorated with earthy hues and wildlife photographs captured around the estate. A second building will soon go under renovation, significantly expanding the number of available suites.
Borgo dei Conti Resort’s main outdoor swimming pool is located just up the hill, past a small amphitheater, on a raised terrace that overlooks the 40-acre grounds. Meanwhile, the subterranean spa in the bowels of the main building features two saunas, a hammam, jacuzzis, relaxation areas that spill outside, and multiple treatment rooms for both individuals and couples.
Vocabolo Moscatelli
At Vocabolo Moscatelli, a 12th-century former monastery tucked between rolling meadows and woodland, the small group of restored stone buildings house 12 rooms and suites designed simply and tastefully—allowing the rustic charm of the original features to shine. This boutique property is a member of Design Hotels and operated by Frederik Kubierschky and Catharina Lütjens, who treat their guests and staff like family, hosting evening gatherings around the firepit, and pizza nights and events in the vegetable-forward restaurant.
The site was previously a rundown bed and breakfast before the couple completely transformed, restored, and upgraded all of the interior and exterior spaces with the help of architect Jacopo Venerosi Pesciolini of Florence-based studio Archiloop. All the furniture and fixtures are primarily from Italian brands, while locally produced ironwork is used for everything from outdoor tables to shower partitions, and the colorful Cotto Etrusco bathroom tiles are also sourced within a few miles of the hotel.
Everything is set up for peace and relaxation, and guests can lounge by the outdoor pool, stroll along the gravel walkways and through the flower gardens, or curl up by one of many fireplaces with a book. And while there’s no communal spa here, the larger suites feature luxurious bathtubs—two of which are situated on outdoor terraces—that come with in-water pillows for extra comfort, and there’s a dedicated “spa suite” that offers a private hot tub and sauna for those guests specifically looking to unwind.
The piece-de-resistance here is the monastery’s church, which overlooks the courtyard garden from a lofty perch. Its interior is intentionally left empty, for use as a multi-faith and multi-purpose space that’s perfect for prayer, meditation, yoga, or, alternatively, a dramatic private dining spot at night and a nightclub on New Year’s Eve.