A Gourmet Guide to Sag Harbor by Le Bernardin Chef Eric Ripert
The three Michelin-star extraordinaire dishes on his favorite spots in this Long Island hamlet
For award-winning chef, author, and television personality Eric Ripert, seafood—and meticulous preparations of it in all forms—is second nature. Raised in the South of France and trained under such culinary greats as Joël Robuchon and David Bouley, Ripert founded the three Michelin-star Le Bernardin in 1994 and today oversees 175 employees working to cement the restaurant’s number one U.S. ranking (per La Liste, for six years running).
Naturally, such culinary excellence requires a rigorous schedule—one that Chef Ripert sets aside for weekends spent in Sag Harbor, on the east end of Long Island, where he walks on the beach, cycles, and visits local farm stands. “The goal out here is not to socialize–though I do some of that–but it’s mostly to do nothing at all,” he reflects.
Below are a few of his local favorites for casual fall days spent in and around Sag Harbor:
What is special about Sag Harbor, and the Hamptons more broadly?
I have had a house in the forest in Noyack since 1999. At the time, I couldn’t afford beachfront property, but this piece of land is beautiful. I’m only five-to-ten minutes from the beaches and the bay, and it’s just two hours from Manhattan by car if you time it right. When you live in New York City you need a place to rest and restore, and this is mine.
In summer, we spend every weekend here, and in the off season, as much time as we can. I love to spend Thanksgiving and Easter in Long Island, and Memorial Day weekend–the start of summer–is a highlight. I can’t compare the East End to Antibes or Andorra–where I grew up–except that all of them have houses by the water and excellent fruit and veg.
One of the things that makes Sag Harbor so unique is the mix of architectural styles: Colonial, Federal, and Victorian style homes are charming and largely protected from development. Typical Shingle style homes are beautiful and have been left unchanged for centuries, which adds to the historic atmosphere. The charming old Sag Harbor Cinema and the Bay Street Theatre always have excellent programming–and the latter draws actors from all over the world. There isn’t a bad seat in the house.
What does a typical day look like?
The Sag Harbor Whaling & Historical Museum is a highlight and a great way to learn about this part of Long Island and the industry that built it. And, of course, there is all kinds of wildlife and nature; a walk out to Cedar Point and the lighthouse and walks in the Morton Natural Wildlife Refuge are always relaxing. I’m also a fan of the Deerfield Wilderness Loop, where it’s easy to get lost in the woods. There is so much biking, too, even along the Middle Lane Highway.
Are there day trips or excursions that you recommend?
Shelter Island—reachable by a quick ferry—is a great place to spend the day. I like Sunset Beach for lunch, followed by games of pétanque with clients and friends. There are many French people here, and Sunset Beach is a whole lifestyle, with a great, laid-back vibe.
Léon 1909 is another excellent spot for dinner. They serve French-Italian cuisine and have a central wood-burning stove, where they cook much of the food. It feels rustic, beachy, and far away.
I also recommend taking a boat to the North Fork, where you can spend a pleasant day in Greenport and explore the vineyards and Orient Point. In the opposite direction, the Surf Lodge in Montauk is very fun and vibrant, if a bit far.
Speaking of food…do you prefer to cook or go out in the Hamptons?
I love to go out! In Sag Harbor, the American Hotel is a classic for a good meal and a lively bar scene. Lulu Kitchen & Bar is another favorite for simple, wood-fired bistro cuisine, and Sen is my longtime regular for excellent Japanese food in a low-lit, buzzy setting. Beacon, Le Bilboquet where they are very nice to me, and Dopo La Spiaggia for pasta are other regular stops. For local seafood, Bell & Anchor on the water is excellent, as is the pizza at Pellegrino’s on Noyack Road where they also have a lively bar scene.
If I go to surrounding areas, it might be Sant Ambroeus in Southampton for lunch or Pierre’s in Bridgehampton for dinner. Pierre has been there for 20-plus years and is a friend. Nick & Toni’s is another classic for farm-fresh, Italian cuisine.
If you’re cooking at home, where do you source ingredients?
The produce and baked goods are so outstanding here; the berries, corn and vegetables from the Halsey Farm are the best. Little tip: if you can get there early you can get fresh, warm mozzarella, but you’ve got to be quick as it sells out immediately. I also get bunches of wildflowers from this market.
In Sag Harbor, I like Serene Green for everything from produce to fresh bread to local honey. Cavaniola’s is the place for a wide variety of cheeses and rosé in summer. We now have a Carissa’s in Sag Harbor—the excellent bakery that started in East Hampton and is so well known for its Salted Sour Pickle Rye bread.
And what about other kinds of shopping?
I like to support local, and Sag Harbor Books is a proper, old-school shop with recommended reading. And Kromoris Museum Gallery Shop is always worth a visit; you’ll find everything from old CDs to books, to art by local makers. The Sag Harbor Variety Store is a classic that’s been there for a century and is just so convenient.
For interesting objects—little Buddhas, crystals, shells and coral—Blooming Shells always has an interesting curation of things. If you’re looking for beautiful pieces for the kitchen or tabletop, In Home has it all—from pots and pans to beautiful linens. For orchids that last from May to September, the Sag Harbor Florist is an excellent resource near the marina.
The traffic to the Hamptons is legendary…what is your tip for beating the rush?
If you leave the city on a Friday after 3 p.m. it will take you 3.5-to-4 hours. My routine is leaving at exactly 7 p.m. and then I arrive at 9 p.m. It’s the magic hour! On a Monday morning back to the city, I leave at 9:30 a.m. and I am in midtown by 11:45 a.m.