The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry Is Translated in a New Book

The Victorians understood jewelry was not strictly decorative. It can convey identity, belief, and symbolism in addition to being ornamental. And this is the impetus for The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry: The History and Lore of Gems, Charms, and Talismans a forthcoming volume from Clarkson Potter. Written by journalist and design historian Amy Azzarito, the 272-page book decodes more than 60 gemstones, symbols, and familiar motifs, tracing the meanings that once made a brooch, ring, or pendant capable of conveying everything from fidelity and protection to mourning and immortality.

Queen Victoria gave her name to the era, but other personalities in the book range far afield forward and back. Chapters are arranged alphabetically around subject matter and gemstones, so that lion, swan, dove, eagle, heart and crescent nestle comfortably alongside peridot, ruby, sapphire, turquoise and pearl.

Azzarito hunted down historic portraits in which sitters actually wear the type of jewelry under discussion, then paired those images with jewels from museum collections and antique dealers. This lets the reader see not just what the pieces looked like, but how they were worn. In addition, The Secret Language of Victorian Jewelry functions almost as a field guide for deciphering both antique jewelry and motifs that continue to turn up in contemporary collections.