Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri Draws on the Heritage Makers of Scotland for the 2025 Cruise Collection

In a social media post, Chiuri describes Scotland as a country “where the vastness and beauty of its raw landscapes and nature meet age-old craftsmanship and art.” But she is also following a Dior tradition. The maison’s founder, Christian Dior, named an haute couture ensemble Écosse (a French word for Scotland) in 1947, presented a collection in Glasgow four years later, and in 1955 sent 172 looks down a runway specially constructed in the ballroom of the hotel Gleneagles in Perthshire for a charity event, which was paired with a similar fundraiser at Glasgow’s Central Hotel.

Chiuri’s choice of Drummond Castle was largely informed by its stunning formal terraced gardens. Along its manicured parterres walked models in tartan gowns with deep décolletage, punky leather minidresses with exaggerated 16th-century sleeves, and fine wool blouses overlaid with lace-and-ruffle collars. It was a perfect demonstration of where fusion can lead to in fashion. Boots were sturdy, perfect for striding across a Scottish moor; bags worn crossways bore a faint resemblance to the sporran.

Dior achieved all this in intimate collaboration with skilled manufacturers that are still based in Scotland. The geometric Sanquhar and multicolored Fair Isle patterns were given French couture flair at Esk Cashmere in Annan. A 1930s embroidered map of Scotland sourced from the Johnstons of Elgin archives caught the eye of Chiuri, who commissioned the heritage

And then, of course, there are the tartans, made of Harris Tweed, which Chiuri commissioned from craftsmen in the Outer Hebrides, their colors derived from the astonishing location: the blue of the sea, the red of the rocks, the mustard yellow of gorse flowers. The process begins by fiber-dyeing fine British Cheviot wool to intense solid colors that hold their own even in complex weaving combinations. An artisanal skill, it’s been passed down among indigenous islanders and remained unchanged for over 100 years.

All this makes tartan a truly time-honored—and timeless—cultural artifact. And more to the point, it simply never goes out of fashion.

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2024 Fall Issue under the headline “Haute Highlands.” Subscribe to the magazine.