London Institution Simpson’s in the Strand Returns to Its Edwardian Glory
Restaurateur Jeremy King and Studio Shayne Brady revive the nearly 200-year-old dining landmark with silver-trolley roasts, richly restored interiors, and a renewed sense of occasion befitting the British capital
Tennis has Wimbledon, cricket has Lord’s, and chess has Simpson’s in the Strand, the nearly 200-year-old London institution where generations of illustrious Brits (Charles Dickens, Arthur Conan Doyle, Winston Churchill) once gathered over hushed matches and roasts served from gleaming silver trolleys. One of the last surviving “grande dame” dining rooms in the British capital, Simpson’s began in 1828 as a cigar-scented coffee house before garnering renown for its exceptional roast meats and emerging as Britain’s foremost venue for chess by the mid-19th century. Around that time, servers began wheeling silver-domed joints of meat and gravy and carving them tableside before diners so chess players could continue their matches undisturbed—a tradition that endures today.
Despite the rich history contained within its wood-paneled walls, Simpson’s closed in March 2020 during the earliest days of the pandemic. Some mourned the loss as another blow to London’s historic dining culture; others hoped the storied institution would eventually return alongside many of the city’s dormant restaurants. Jeremy King certainly did. The hospitality veteran, who, with former business partner Chris Corbin, helped define London dining through such tony destinations as Le Caprice, the Wolseley, and the Delaunay, had pursued Simpson’s for more than two decades. “Most restaurants like this have disappeared,” he tells Galerie. After first attempting to acquire the building in 2000, King finally received the opportunity in 2022. “Simpson’s sits apart as one of the last true ‘grand’ dining rooms.”
Determined to protect the restaurant’s character, King enlisted longtime collaborator Studio Shayne Brady to oversee the six-year renovation. The London practice, which also conceived interiors for King’s recent ventures The Park in Bayswater and Arlington in St. James’s, approached the Grade II–listed landmark with masterful stewardship. “With a building so deeply embedded in London’s cultural fabric, the question was never how to transform it, but how to listen to it, how to understand what should be protected, and how we could gently evolve it,” Brady tells Galerie. One directive proved particularly salient: King wanted returning patrons to believe nothing had changed.
Brady accomplished exactly what King envisioned. The Grand Divan, Simpson’s clubby all-day dining room, returns in full Edwardian splendor beneath glittering chandeliers and richly restored timber paneling inset with marquetry. “The elements we protected most carefully were those that carried both craft and memory,” Brady notes. Deep red velvet banquettes, leather upholstery, and polished hardwood floors reinforce the room’s enveloping warmth while high-backed settees introduce a more convivial layout. The famed silver trolleys once again glide between tables alongside the restaurant’s master carvers. The menu remains faithful to British classics, from overnight-roasted Devonshire beef ribs to Barnsley chops and railway mutton curry. A French-leaning wine list spans Champagne, Burgundy, and Bordeaux, while breakfast revives old-school staples such as streaky bacon, black pudding, and fried mushrooms.
“The Grand Divan possesses an inherent sense of ceremony, and preserving that was essential,” Brady continues. “We chose to heighten its existing qualities—its depth, its warmth, and its sense of enclosure—while quietly creating a better flow and layout. What has emerged is a space that retains its Edwardian gravitas but feels less formal in its energy. This allows it to function as an enlivened dining room, not a relic.” Romano’s, located upstairs, carries that spirit into a brighter, more informal setting. Faux-marble columns rise beside Wedgwood-inspired friezes and green leather upholstery, while understated checkerboard carpet and marquetry tabletops nod to the restaurant’s chess heritage. Portraits of celebrated 20th-century playwrights line the walls, recalling the Strand’s long connection to London’s theatre culture while “lending the space a certain lightness,” Brady says.
Elsewhere, the restaurant embraces a more decadent spirit. On the first floor, Simpson’s Bar channels early Art Deco glamour through polished wood, low lighting, and plush seating that invites guests to settle in before or after dinner. The cocktail program leans heavily on British spirits, from small-batch gins to whiskies and sparkling wines. Down a discreet staircase, Nellie’s trades Edwardian grandeur for after-hours indulgence. Open until three in the morning, the late-night hideaway caters to London’s theater crowd beneath a life-size portrait of opera legend Dame Nellie Melba. Animal-print velvets, dark burgundy leather, and oxblood-paneled walls wrap the room in a sultry glow that recalls old-world cabaret lounges.
In these rooms, King granted Brady greater latitude while still honoring the building’s illustrious history, allowing Simpson’s to retain its old-world grandeur while operating with renewed vitality. “When it comes to interiors, I always work with a building to celebrate it,” King explains. “Design shouldn’t shout for attention. What Simpson’s offers is something increasingly rare: a menu that celebrates British food, a setting rooted in London’s cultural life, and a certain theatricality without feeling like a museum piece.” Nearly two centuries after its founding, Simpson’s once again seems poised to make all the right moves.