Hotel of the Week: This New Zealand Escape Is Well Worth a Journey Down Under
For outdoor enthusiasts and lovers of great design, Flockhill Lodge, an exquisite South Island destination, ticks every box
Opened for just over a year, the minimalist Flockhill Lodge that’s set on a 36,000 acre working sheep station in New Zealand’s stunning Southern Alps is an aesthete’s dream. The main building by architects Warren & Mahoney—known as the Homestead—is a sprawling, four-bedroom home-away-from home for just friends and family, most of whom take it over to celebrate a special milestone or a multi-generational moment. The Dalai Lama once referred to the area of Flock Hill Station as “the spiritual center of the universe” and a stay here—surrounded by so much soothing natural beauty—proves the point.
Just an hour and half from Christchurch airport—or a spectacular 30-minute helicopter ride over the Canterbury Plains and the brilliant blue Waimakariri river—there is no check-in, no fuss, just a warm greeting and a transfer in one of the property’s very cool, kitted-out Toyota Land Cruisers to complete the rugged chic vibe. From the central Farmhouse restaurant where meals are served family style, to the sumptuous communal living rooms for sitting by the fire or screening films, to the serene bedrooms with awe-inspiring views, it’s difficult to tear oneself away from this spare, textural masterpiece and venture outdoors.
From an interior design perspective, no detail has been overlooked, and every finish is New Zealand made—from the furnishings to the textiles to the lighting. Woolen throws made from the farm’s own fiber appears in felted, boiled and woven forms, while tables made of slabs of Totara wood and willow baskets crafted by a local maker all create an authentic sense of place. Handblown glass fixtures by Monmouth Glass and an imposing central wooden dining table by Treology make a central gathering spot for festive feasts or simple breakfasts (always made to order and delicious) as well. At the end of long days spent hiking, biking, fishing, horseback riding, and even farming, handcrafted Dreamwool beds made of reclaimed Rimu wood and the highest quality Merino wool invite an unparalleled night’s sleep. Alpaca throws in muted tones and lamb’s wool blankets are found at the foot of every bed, sofa and chair and are nice additions to a comfortable, cosseting stay.
This enveloping experience is now open to more guests thanks the recent opening of 14 new villas by Hierarchy Group, each with two king rooms, kitchenettes and panoramic views of Purple Hill and the lake beyond. Neutral tones and textures meld into the natural scenery with precast concrete walls, New Zealand leather finishes and multiple skylights enhancing the spacious surroundings. Just steps from the working farm and the newly launched Sugarloaf restaurant, the villas offer the same discreet-yet-attentive service as the Homestead (laundry service and a latte just the way you like it are customary), but with proximity to a game room and the soon-to-be-launched spa and wellness facility.
But it is Sugarloaf that is sure to become destination dining for curious foodies and serious gourmands alike. Helmed by Kiwi chef Taylor Cullen who earned accolades at Sydney’s acclaimed Chiswick where he adopted a “paddock to plate” approach to inventive, fresh cuisine, Sugarloaf promises minimalism with punch. The importance of seasonality and local sourcing is core to Cullen’s cooking, as are his world travels and the team’s focus on fermentation. With 36,000 acres of fields and streams—not to mention woodlands for foraging—almost everything on offer comes from this land. Menus include things such as set milk, native grains and walnut sap at breakfast, a kingfish sandwich with a vibrant garden salad at lunch to eel and venison with traditional Maori potatoes at dinner. Chef Cullen is so in tune with his guests that he intuits what each guest wants in the moment—from a simple sashimi appetizer to a hearty prosciutto, parmesan and rocket pizza after a strenuous mountain hike. If time allows, don’t miss the Chef’s Table experience with Cullen where you’ll learn about world cuisine (his cooking has taken him from Santa Barbara, California, to Copenhagen, and everywhere in between and these influences are felt) and savor a multi-course, soon-to-be chef’s hat meal (the New Zealand equivalent of a Michelin star) at the same time.
The layout of Flock Hill—the Homestead and the Villas—makes exploration easy; from the sleek terrace with its infinity edge pool overlooking Sugarloaf Mountain, to the meandering garden pathways throughout the property, wandering is easy and encouraged at every turn. From guided biodiversity walks to the nearby waterfall (a must for avid birders), horseback riding with Heather (the shepherd/farmer/naturalist), to rock climbing and shooting clays, there is almost no activity—even back-country and heli-skiing—that can’t be organized. Kayaking and paddle boarding are easily accessible highlights, with colorful Paradise Shelducks and Australasian Crested Grebe marking almost every leisurely outing. Best of all, however, is just setting out along gentle, winding roads to watch the sheep (and the precious lambs, depending on the season) and cattle in their bucolic, perfectly preserved habitat.
Further afield, a journey on the TranzAlpine scenic train offers the chance to explore the iconic Arthur’s Pass, while hikes around the magical Castle Hill—the limestone boulder-strewn area that featured prominently in The Chronicles of Narnia—or in the surrounding pitch-black caves can also be arranged. A helicopter tour sounded just OK to me at first, but I was completely wowed by the experience, so it is worth booking ahead. Guided by a Flockhill naturalist, this is the best way to learn about New Zealand’s crystalline rivers, endless scree (loose rock), and verdant landscapes, complete with surprise landings for even more panoramic views and a glacier picnic.
Flockhill is for anyone who loves design details—from linens to local stone to coffee table tomes and exquisite ceramics—and for those looking for pure relaxation. While the internet and sound systems are all state-of-the-art, a stay here is about being in the moment and relaxing in nature, preferably with a good book and a glass of the South Island Sauvignon Blanc in hand.