Hotel of the Week: Explore One of Provence’s Best-Kept Secrets
Ancient stone hamlets meet modern-day accommodations at Coquillade Provence, a peaceful retreat set among rolling vineyards and fields of lavender
Provence’s best-kept hotel secret is no doubt Coquillade Provence. Tucked amid rolling vineyards and fields of lavender so fragrant you’ll want to bottle the air, this Relais & Châteaux stunner is just a 45-minute train ride from Avignon but feels worlds away from the everyday. Perched on the edge of the storybook village of Gargas, it’s a place where ancient stone hamlets meet modern-day indulgence, and the art of living well is not just a motto, it’s a daily practice.
Originally established by Cistercian monks from Sénanque Abbey in the 11th century, the estate’s honey-hued buildings and sun-dappled courtyards radiate timeless Provençal charm. But don’t be fooled by the centuries-old façade: after the late Swiss entrepreneur (and Provence superfan) Andy Rihs snapped up the property in 2006, he transformed it into a playground for oenophiles, cyclists, and anyone with a taste for the good life. Today, his sons Oliver and Tobias carry the torch, infusing every corner with a commitment to sustainability, biodynamics, and a little bit of that Rihs family magic.
Set across 42 hectares of olive groves, cypress alleys, and vineyard rows, Coquillade is a choose-your-own-adventure for the senses. Visitors can cycle legendary routes (Mont Ventoux, anyone?), get blissfully lost in the next-level spa, or simply sip organic estate wines while watching the sunset over the Luberon hills.
Art is everywhere, don’t miss Uwe Henneken’s loud Transhistorical Waterfall in the lobby-and the culinary scene is as Provençal as it gets, with farm-to-table fare and rosé that tastes like summer in a glass. And now, there’s a new reason to book a trip to the property: the debut of five dreamy Luberon suites, each one a sanctuary within a sanctuary.
The Luberon suites are suspiciously quiet, the kind of hush where guests can hear the birds gossiping outside and the scent of rosemary and lavender sneaks in through open terrace doors. Step outside for a soak in a private jacuzzi, espresso in hand, where the air smells like French countryside sun and wild herbs, and it becomes hard to imagine vacationing anywhere else.
Inspired by mythology, the five new suites, Cyrène, Ida, Elysia, Daphné, and Cassiopée, are designed as intimate, art-filled retreats, each named for a nymph whose spirit subtly guides the suite’s identity. Daphné, for example, channels transformation and nature with organic textures and panoramic views that invite the outdoors in. Cassiopée is all about regal beauty: think solarium, private lap pool, and a sauna that’s basically a private mini-spa.
Elysia’s lucite bathtub and custom coffee bar (crafted from local oak and stocked with artisanal teas and treats) turn morning routines into a private café moment. A celebration of ritual and detail, the cabinetry is culled from locally sourced French oak, its clean lines and built-in shelving showcasing a gorgeous collection of ceramic cups and carafes while the high-end espresso machine is accompanied by great espresso, artisanal teas, and local confections.
Furnishings are a celebration of French craftsmanship with Maison Hervé Baume’s sculptural consoles and linen sofas, elegantly curved reading chairs, and custom pieces that balance warmth with a modern silhouette. The art is a rotating gallery, thanks to the Rihs brothers’ private collection—abstract canvases, textural photography, and rare Diurnes prints by Picasso, André Villers, and Jacques Prévert, to name a few. For the suites, art is a conversation between past and present, where a person can simply sit and be with the art.
Don’t miss taking in the chandeliers, which are are works of art in themselves, created by the legendary Mathieu Lustrerie Atelier (who recently restored lighting for Notre-Dame). “In the dining room of one suite, for example, the Love chandelier, with its 120 candles that look as if they were lit to declare your love in letters of fire, is an invitation to romance,” says artisan Régis Mathieu, whose gallery and workshop museum is just a short drive away. “At the heart of a luxuriant winter garden, a palm chandelier by Joseph Hoffmann transforms the room into a veritable palace worthy of the Thousand and One Nights.”
No two suites are alike, but all share a sense of place and story. The process was deeply immersive; Mathieu spent ample time in each suite for lighting inspiration. “I have a particular affection for the suite with the winter garden, whose perfect alignment with the bath creates a suspended moment in the middle of nature,” he says. “Whether contemporary creations or historical works, all stand alongside modern paintings, giving the impression of entering the intimate world of a passionate collector.”
