Insider’s Guide: Mexico City Perfumer Extraordinaire Carlos Huber Shares Hidden Gems

“Mexico City has changed so much over the last 50 years,” says Huber of the city’s cultural efflorescence. “My generation went abroad to study and came back with a hunger for cool ideas, new experiences, concept shops, and so on. The result is that people are focusing on the amazing in their own city. You’ll find the most architects in the world here, the most museums, and so many varied, global cuisines.”

Here are just a few of Huber’s insider highlights to this vibrant metropolis of the moment.

What makes the architecture of Mexico City so unique?

The Mexico City of the 1600s was comparable to any European city; you will find examples of everything from pre-Hispanic to colonial architecture, as well as some of the most incredible Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Deco, Bauhaus, and Contemporary buildings anywhere. Because of the city’s explosive growth, a network of highways has led to the creation of neighborhoods including Condesa with its Art Deco style, and Roma where you’ll find Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau buildings, as well as Cast Iron.

What are some of your favorite sights and structures?

The Palace of Mines—which was a center during colonial times—is a Neoclassical gem that could easily be in Madrid or Paris. The Opera House is another highlight; the exterior was built before the Revolution, and it has this incredible Art Deco interior that was influenced by Mayan shapes and forms. Brutalist architect Abraham Zabludovsky’s worked in granite and his iconic Tamayo Museum in Chapultepec Park is incredible.

Are there places just outside the city—or in less traveled places—that shouldn’t be missed?

The Luis Barragán House and Studio is set in a nearby suburb and is just so serene and sublime as his Cuadra San Cristobal—a seven and half acre horse farm—where every color, space and surface is incredible. For views of the city, Chapultepec Castle with its rooftop terraces is amazing. Built in 1785, this former palace was once the home of Emperor Maximilian of Habsburg and now houses Mexico’s National History Museum.

How is the look of the Mexico City changing?

There are so many interesting contemporary architects working now; Enrique Norten, Founder of TEN Arquitectos, redesigned CENTRO, a university for creative studies that covers 55,000 square feet. The Santa Fe area is the city’s most modern area, with skyscrapers that feel like you’re in Shanghai or Tokyo.

What are a few art and design highlights now?

The art scene here is one of the most exciting anywhere in the world. I think this likely due to a combination of factors; first, art is more affordable. In addition, there is a thriving, inspiring artistic community, and lastly, there is a heritage of artists such as Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

The gallery world is thriving in Mexico City. Gallery OMR is one of the most established contemporary art spaces in the city, and Gaga and Kurimanzutto Gallery also show the work of young and emerging artists. My sister—Karen Huber—is a gallerist, too, and her Galería Karen Huber highlights contemporary painting. Whenever I’m back in Mexico City, I’m always at art openings with friends and family.

Mexico City is for foodies…

Most people are drawn to the dynamic, creative culinary scene here. It used to be that more formal cuisine—with white tablecloth service, in a European way—was preferred, but that has given way to a greater understanding of street food. It is now considered cooler, more authentic, and its often served in contemporary settings. Chef Enrique Olvera’s award-winning Pujol is a prime example of this; the food is of this place, and very modern.

We have so much coastline that the seafood is excellent. Chef Gabriela Cámara’s Contramar is a seafood institution, all served family style. Chef Lucho Martinez is another star with restaurants Em and Ultramarinos.

Mexican cuisine is not just one thing; we come from different places and have different influences and that’s reflected in the cooking. Traditionally, everything went through Mexico—spices, ceramics—so, for example, Asian curries influenced or mole sauces. We use cinnamon and cloves, but with European techniques and ingredients like olive oil. There is a thriving sushi scene, Spanish food, a cantina (pub) scene with a tapas approach…there’s something for everyone.

The markets are amazing, too, with the Mercado San Juan the place for more gourmet foods. This is where chefs go for imported things like French cheeses and Japanese ingredients. For flowers, the Mercado Jamaica is an enormous, colorful maze.

And for shoppers…

I am always trying to keep up with what is new; retail-wise it’s daunting as the city is changing so fast. Chic by Accident is a standout store/gallery that offers a mix of traditional Mexican folk objects with antiques and mid-century furniture, and Trouvé in the Roma Norte area is great for vintage objects and mid-century. And for fashion, Campillo is a great place for fashion with reinterpretations of traditional Mexican riding clothes. I also recommend the niche fragrance boutique Xinu in Polanco. It was started by a group of noted artists and designers and the fragrances incorporate Mexican ingredients such as agave, marigold and tuberose.