Auctions

Belle Époque Masterpieces Headline the “Vanderbilt Family Jewels” Sale at Phillips

An important Tiffany & Co. brooch set with a 42.68-carat Kashmir sapphire could fetch more than $1 million.

November 7, 2025

Ornate silver brooch with intricate diamond patterns surrounding a large central blue gemstone. — "The Vanderbilt Sapphire." Tiffany & Co., Exceptional sapphire and diamond brooch, early 20th century. Estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000. Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

One of the most talked-about highlights of the Nov. 10 Geneva Jewels Auction: V, presented by Phillips, is a group of 12 extraordinary pieces belonging to the Vanderbilt family. The Vanderbilts, who amassed their fortune through American railroad and shipping investments, held significant prominence on the social register in the late 19th century and are regarded as one of the most enduring emblems of Gilded Age glamour. If their homes—their Beaux Arts mansion on Fifth Avenue, for example—are any indication, it’s no surprise that the family jewels are an impressive bunch. (And you can appreciate their luster and sparkle in some of artist John Singer Sargent’s portraits of the Vanderbilt ladies when you view them up close.)

Diamond and emerald brooch in a ribbon design with sparkling gemstone accents on a white background. — Diamond and emerald brooch, late 19th century. Estimate: $5,000-8,000. Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Gold watch with ruby accents and intricate wristband design. — Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond wristwatch, circa 1937. Estimate: $3,000-5,000. Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Over generations, these jewels, many by Tiffany & Co. and Cartier, have become treasured heirlooms as well as fine examples of the design codes of the Belle Époque era (1871-1914).

Portrait of a woman with dark hair and elegant attire, set against a dark background. — Portrait of Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi by Philip de László, (1921). Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Portrait of a man wearing a black beret with a feather, green sash, and holding a gold cane against a brown background. — Count László Széchényi. Photo: © de Laszlo Foundation. Estate of The Countess Anthony Szapáry.

The Phillips collection comes from Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, who was born in 1886. The youngest daughter of Cornelius Vanderbilt II, she represented the last generation of Gilded Age heiresses whose marriages bridged American wealth and European nobility. Gladys grew up in the Fifth Avenue mansion as well as the Breakers, the family’s “summer cottage” on Newport’s Bellevue Avenue. After inheriting the former, she lived in an apartment there until her death in 1965. The jewels on offer in the Phillips auction are believed to have “lived” at the Breakers as well.

Exquisite diamond brooch with an ornate design featuring a central large blue gemstone and intricate filigree details. — “The Vanderbilt Sapphire.” Tiffany & Co., Exceptional sapphire and diamond brooch, early 20th century. Estimate: $1,000,000-1,500,000. Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Exquisite diamond brooch designed in the shape of a delicate flower with intricate details and sparkling gemstones. — Cartier, Magnificent diamond brooch, circa 1905 Given by Alice Gwynne Vanderbilt to her daughter, Gladys Vanderbilt, on the occasion of her marriage to Count Laszló Széchenyi in 1908. Part of the wedding basket. Originally part of a tiara that could be detached as brooches and the main stones could be interchanged between amethysts or diamonds. Estimate: $100,000-150,000. Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

The undeniable star of the collection is “The Vanderbilt Sapphire,” an exceptional sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch weighing 42.68 carats. Mounted by Tiffany & Co., this extraordinary gem was originally gifted by matriarch Alice Vanderbilt to her daughter, the aforementioned Gladys Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi. The brooch’s intricate openwork design, embellished with old-cut diamonds, is typical of the Belle Époque period’s intricate, lacy, and floral-inspired jewelry designs.

There is also a Cartier brooch that centers an old-cut, pear-shaped diamond weighing 4.55 carats. The jewel was originally part of a diamond tiara made with eight lily sprays accented with amethysts and diamonds that had been commissioned by Alice Vanderbilt for Gladys upon her marriage to Count László Széchényi in 1908. The tiara was eventually dismantled, and the present brooch stands as a surviving symbol of social power, familial ambition, and transatlantic prestige.

Gold rectangular case with red gemstone and intricate crest design on the lid. — Cartier, Gold, ruby and diamond vanity case, circa 1937 With the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt Estimate: $8,000-12,000 Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Vintage gold travel alarm clock with white face and black numbers in an open case. — Cartier, 8 Day traveling clock With GS monogram, and engraved from DS Xmas 1913. Estimate: $5,000-8,000 Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Rounding out the sale are delicate objects and fine jewels from the late 19th century to the first third of the 20th century, including an emerald and diamond bow brooch, a diamond comb, a Cartier vanity case bearing the monogram of Gladys Vanderbilt, a small clock, and a gold, ruby, and diamond wristwatch.

Two intricately designed, bejeweled mesh purses; one gold and blue, the other silver and red, side by side on a white background. — Gold and sapphire purse, and a diamond, ruby and pearl purse, circa 1890. Estimate: $3,000-5,000 Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Antique decorative hair comb with intricate silver detailing and amber teeth, set with small pearls or gems. — Diamond comb, early 20th century Estimate: $3,000-5,000 Photo: Courtesy of Phillips

Throughout the fall, collectors have been previewing the pieces in key destinations across the globe. The Nov. 10 auction will be a live, one-day-only event held at the Hotel President in Geneva and on the Phillips website. Bidding starts at 10 a.m. ET.