Sam Tho Duong, Frozen necklace (2013)

Freshwater pearls, nylon, and oxidized silver; private collection

“Sam Tho Duong started out turning discarded objects into jewelry, which I thought was wonderful, and then he started migrating to tiny seed pearls on silver. The pearls represent frozen branches. It’s so odd and beautiful—for me that is high jewelry, that kind of handmade oddity which you’ve never seen anything like.” —Melanie Grant

Melanie Georgacopoulos, Corner Nacre bangle (2019)

Peacock mother-of-pearl and Tahitian pearl in gold

“Melanie Georgacopoulos works with pearls, which are often viewed as quite conventional and traditional. However she saws them in half, makes hexagonal cuffs, and anything you can think of that you shouldn’t do to a pearl, she’s done. It’s sacrilege and brilliant.” —Melanie Grant

Roule & Co., Starburst Halo bangle (circa 2013)

Emeralds in blackened gold and yellow gold

“Roule & Co. has a Brutalist architectural style in which they design blackened-gold cages with stones. Christopher, one of the designers, was inspired by New York skyscrapers, as well as the Eiffel Tower, to make this blackened framework. I love cities. Everyone talks about nature, but for me the city is also beautiful.” —Melanie Grant

Arman Suciyan, Goddess Wing Drop earrings (2014)

Brown diamonds and orange sapphires in textured rhodium-plated silver

“Arman Suciyan does streamlined silver modernist pieces which all slot together. They are based on the power of this otherworldly goddess. I love the fact that his jewelry is affordable but still art. Not everything has to cost a million dollars. In Turkey where it’s all heavy gold, he’s just completely different.” —Melanie Grant