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Meet High Jeweler Emmanuel Tarpin, De Grisogono’s New Artist-in-Residence

At just 27 years old, the Paris-based designer has already risen to prominence in the world of haute joaillerie

By Lucy Rees
Spiral black earrings with silver studs, casting unique shadows on a white background.
Seashells Spiral earrings by Emmanuel Tarpin. Photo: Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

Man in white shirt writing at a table with flowers and art around him.
Emmanuel Tarpin. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

At just 27 years old, Paris-based designer Emmanuel Tarpin has already risen to prominence in the world of haute joaillerie with exquisite bijoux that break free from convention with bold silhouettes, layered textures, and unexpected stone compositions. He studied at the esteemed Geneva School of Art and Design before honing his craft at Van Cleef & Arpels’s high jewelry workshop. He begins with a sketch before crafting a maquette in paper or wax. “I am highly sensitive to color, so I handpick every stone,” says Tarpin, who launched his namesake line in 2017. “Each one-of-a-kind piece requires a lot of experimentation.”  

Recommended: The 11 Most Spectacular High Jewelry Creations from Paris Couture

Artistic inspirations: “British sculptor Andy Goldsworthy is a big influence. I’m also drawn to the movement in an Alexander Calder mobile, for example, or the optical effects of a Bridget Riley painting. Then there are Dan Flavin and James Turrell.”

Design philosophy: “It is all about contrasts, from the color gradients; textures of polished, matte, and brushed aluminum; or the shape of the piece versus its lightness. I love the idea of wearing high jewelry without feeling its weight. It has to be precious yet wearable.”

Up next: De Grisogono recently announced that the jewelry designer is the 2019-2020 Artist in Residence of the Maison. Tarpin will reinterpret the codes of the storied jewelry house through a capsule collection.

Black and white twisted diamond earrings displayed on a white background.
Tarpin’s first creation in collaboration with De Grisogono is this pair of black and white diamond earrings, faithful to the color codes of the high jewelry house. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin/De Grisogono

Gold lotus-shaped ring with a diamond center and a green band, casting a shadow on a white background.
Globe flower ring in matte and polished yellow gold, patinated bronze, yellow sapphires, and diamonds. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

Blue statement floral earrings with shimmering silver accents and a central green gem on a light background.
Pair of blue orchid earrings, aluminum set with diamonds and with a center aquamarine aquamarine. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

Green leaf-shaped earrings adorned with small white gemstones.
A pair of aluminum and diamond Geranium earrings realized $25,000 at Christie’s New York in 2017. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

Intricate flower-shaped jewelry piece with gold and purple petals, adorned with sparkling gemstones.
Hydrangea brooch in green gold, pink gold, blackened aluminum, spinels and rubies. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

Colorful spiral earrings with gemstones in amber and green tones on a white background, resembling abstract art.
Feathers earrings. Courtesy of Emmanuel Tarpin

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2019 Late Fall issue under the headline “Hidden Gems.” Subscribe to the magazine.