An Insider’s Guide to Sicily by Irene Forte
The skincare visionary and daughter of hotel tycoon Sir Rocco Forte shares why she’s made the Italian island her second home
For entrepreneur Irene Forte, Sicily is a second home and the inspiration behind her Mediterranean skincare range. Using natural, sustainably sourced ingredients—many from her family’s own organic farm in Sciacca, on Sicily’s southwestern coast—Irene Forte Skincare is beloved for its gentle-yet-effective formulations that are the embodiment of this Italian landscape.
Here are just a few of Irene’s hidden Sicilian gems—from the most beautiful beaches and archaeological sites to the best arancini and cannoli in the region…
What first brought you to Sicily, and how important is this part of Italy to you?
I first came here with my father in 2003 to look at the wilderness that would become the Verdura Resort. I returned after university to work at the hotel, and I fell in love with the island; it’s ingrained in me. It’s at this wonderful crossroads of civilizations—you have Greek and Arab influences, for example, and the food and architecture reflect this diversity.
The landscape feels so authentic, raw, and real, and full of extremes: from the mountains to the olive groves to the volcanic sunsets, as well as the varied blues of the sea and the verdant landscape. The people are incredibly warm and welcoming, and there is a strong sense of family. Sicily is so important to me that my husband and I were married here—in the hilltop village of Caltabellotta—in a beautiful Norman cathedral.
How does your farm inspire your skincare line?
The farm was created for the hotel, initially to supply fruits and vegetables to feed guests. We started an olive oil brand, and that has been key to the Irene Forte Skincare line, along with almond oil, aloe vera, hibiscus, and prickly pear, as well as lemons and oranges from our trees. We are mixing Mediterranean ingredients with clinical science that’s guided by Dr. Francesca Ferri.
Where do you recommend people stay in Sicily?
For families, Verdura is amazing because there’s so much space, an enormous swimming pool, and several different restaurants. It’s also great for the spa and for golf, too. Villa Igiea, on the Gulf of Palermo, is more romantic as it’s a 19th-century Art Nouveau palazzo that has been reimagined but remains very authentic. The food at both properties is overseen by Fulvio Pierangelini and Chef Emanuele Riccobono, who use the simplest ingredients so everything is just so fresh and flavorful.
Forty minutes from Palermo, you’ll find Tonnaro di Scopello, a tiny former fishing outpost that has been transformed into an idyllic small hotel. This is a very simple place, with palazzo rooms, stunning views of the turquoise bay, and lots of cats. It’s an ideal place to relax with a good book. I also recommend Susafa in the countryside outside of Palermo. It’s a 200-year-old masseria—or farmhouse—with 17 minimalist suites and endless gardens. Guests are even invited to harvest things like cherries, wheat, and tomatoes—depending on the month.
In southeastern Sicily near Noto, Zisola is a lovely six-bedroom agritourismo that is full of local color. Overlooking olive and citrus groves, as well as a vast vineyard known for Nero d’Avola grapes, a visit here feels like staying in someone’s home.
Are there favorite cultural places you recommend to visitors?
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is a prime example of ancient Greek culture. Selinunte is another massive archaeological site that was built in 628 BC and served as a powerful trading city. I also recommend visiting Cretto di Burri, an enormous land art installation that’s built on the ruins of a town destroyed by the 1968 Belice earthquake. It spans 21 acres and is a magical work of minimalist art made of white concrete that stands as a monument to the town of Gibellina Vecchia.
For the most incredible Byzantine glass mosaics and a prime example of Norman architecture, head south of Palermo to the Cathedral of Monreale. The gold mosaics here cover 65,000 square feet and present stories from the Bible and assorted saints. Also in Palermo, both the Royal Palace and the Palatine Chapel are full of stunning art and history. The open-air markets in Palermo—including Ballaró, Capo, Vucciria, and Borgo Vecchio—each has a specialty and a distinct feel, and you can find everything from fresh fish to trinkets by wandering. While you’re here, be sure to visit the Botanical Garden of Palermo, which is considered one of the best in Europe, with over 12,000 diverse plant species.
What is special about Sicilian cuisine, and what are a few of your favorite restaurants and cafés?
Simple ingredients are used to prepare simple, yet delicious food: fresh fish, ripe tomatoes, herbs, and homemade cheese are all standard. One of my favorite typical Sicilian dishes is pasta alla Norma, which includes sautéed eggplant, tomato sauce, and ricotta salata. You’ll also find many Arab influences in dishes like saffron risotto and couscous. One of the most traditional cakes is the Casatta Siciliana—a sponge cake filled with sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta, covered in marzipan, and decorated with icing and candied fruit. Other favorites are granita—a frozen dessert made with fruit or coffee—and cannoli, which are deep-fried pastry shells filled with whipped, sweet ricotta.
In terms of dining out, I like Ristorante M.A.T.E.S., a family-run place in Caltabellotta that’s set in a historic olive oil mill and feels very warm and authentic. At Zagada at Verdura, the specialty is a “macco” puree of broad beans and red prawns that’s absolutely delicious. Another regional specialty is arancini—rice balls stuffed with things like smoky speck ham and melted scamorza cheese, or ragu, or vegetarian options—and some of the best are found at Bar Turistico in Palermo, just around the corner from Villa Igiea.
Are there shops that you particularly love?
For Sicilian jewelry, Nocito Gioielli in Sciacca is very special. A fourth-generation jeweler, the designs are now overseen by Laura Di Giovanna Nocito, who makes very special pieces using the lightest pink coral. I like Manima in Palermo for beautiful lace napkins, hand-embroidered tablecloths, and exquisite sheets—and all the work helps to support female artisans. The shop at Verdura also offers a very curated selection of Sicilian caftans and evening wear made of the lightest cotton, linen, and chiffon, as well as locally made ceramics. Wherever you go, keep an eye out for the signature Sicilian “coffa” bags—they’re handwoven with colorful decorations and are nice for both the beach and evening.
In terms of natural beauty, are there places that visitors should try to see?
Torre Salsa is my favorite beach, and it can be accessed either by boat or by hiking. It’s set in a wildlife haven that has the most unspoiled coastline and crystal-clear water, with chalky white cliffs. Another special spot is the Vendicari Nature Reserve near the towns of Noto and Pachino, where the beaches and snorkeling are both excellent.
For real local color, I like Sicily in late April when everything is in flower, or at Christmas and New Year when the hibiscus is especially beautiful. The Carnival of Sciacca in late February is a cultural highlight with week-long celebrations involving allegorical floats, traditional song and dance, as well as festive street food. Regardless of the season, Sicily is always a good idea.