Tiffany & Co.'s trio of “owl on a rock” brooches
Photo: The Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste Collection
7 Of the World’s Most Talked-About Tanzanites
Get to know this blue-violet beauty better with our showcase of some magnificent mineral specimens and spectacular jewels
Because tanzanite was discovered as recently as 1967, it doesn’t have the kinds of millennia-long legends and lore attached to it. But its story is still compelling: One day, Ali Juuyawatu, a lone Maasai tribesman, found a curious bluish crystal in the hills of northern Tanzania near Mount Kilimanjaro. A local gemologist confirmed that it was a form of zoisite, an aluminum silicate mineral that comes in several colors and is found in many areas of the world.
The blue tint of this zoisite, however, stood out as unusual and is believed to have been caused by heat—in this case, a fire had ravaged some of the grasslands that Juuyawatu was exploring. Tiffany & Co. was among the first jewelers to have access to the material and, in 1968, began marketing the gemstone as “Tanzanite” as an homage to its country of origin.
Today, the most desirable tanzanites possess a beguiling hue that hovers somewhere between the blue of the brightest sapphire and a velvety violet. Artificial heat is used to transform rough tanzanites into an entire spectrum of blue-to-violet shades, effectively replicating what might happen under natural circumstances in pursuit of perfected beauty.
In 2002, at the peak of tanzanite’s recognition in the luxury sector, the American Gem Trade Association officially declared it a birthstone for December (alongside the old favorites of turquoise and zircon).
Despite its rarity and beauty, tanzanite may not enjoy the same celebrity status as say, emeralds, sapphires and rubies—or certain colored diamonds. But on some level, tanzanite’s low profile is good news for collectors and jewelry industry insiders—judging from the looks of the gems and jewels below, they clearly know a good thing when they see it.
Tiffany & Co. Owl on a Rock Tanzanite Brooch in Platinum and 18K Yellow Gold with Tanzanite, turquoise, sapphires and diamonds. Photo: The Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste Collection
1. Tiffany “Owl on a Rock” Brooch, 2024
As part of its annual Blue Book high jewelry collection, Tiffany & Co. presented a trio of “owl on a rock” brooches in celebration of Jean Schlumberger’s iconic “Bird of a Rock” brooch design from 1965. One of the little feathered fellows was a barred owl with sapphire eyes, diamond and turquoise plumage, and a 116 ct. cabochon tanzanite clutched in its gold talons. Price on request.
2. L’Heure Bleu by Naomi Sarna
In the spring of 2024, New York City-based lapidary artist and jeweler Naomi Sarna received a Guinness Book of World Records distinction for having produced the world’s largest cut tanzanite. At 703 carats, its size is impressive to the say the least, but perhaps not to be outdone by Sarna’s masterful technique: Borrowing from the Art Nouveau style, she transforms gems into sensual, organic works of art with windswept curves, tactile ridges and tendrilled edges. The backstory of L’Heure Bleu is also noteworthy: Sarna originally pursued this project for an international competition that would benefit the Maasai people, the tribe that first discovered the gemstone over 50 years ago. The specimen is for sale (price upon request) and according to National Jeweler she plans to donate proceeds to the Portland, Or.-based Casey Eye Institute to provide eye care to the Maasai.
Merelani Hills Tanzanite Crystal. Photo: Courtesy of Sotheby's
3. Merelani Hills Tanzanite Crystal
In July of 2023, this exceptional tombstone-shaped tanzanite crystal appeared in a Sotheby’s sale. Originally the property of Steve Ulatowski, the highly respected owner of New Era Gems in Grass Valley, Calif., the specimen stands out as unique because it’s highly pleochroic (that is, it displays a number of different colors depending on the angle). In this case, a total of seven hues— blue, purple, red, pink, mint green, goldenrod yellow, and orange—make their presence known in a kind of aurora borealis display in mineral form. While this remarkable tanzanite did not make headlines the way other gems have in the past, it’s certainly an impressive acquisition for any gem collector.
4. The Mawenzi Tanzanite
In 2005, when small-scale miner Saniniu Laizer from Simanjiro in the Manyara Region discovered two enormous tanzanite crystals, the gem and jewelry community was all abuzz. Far from beautiful as-is, the pair nevertheless made headlines, especially the larger one: at 16.89 cts., it weighed six pounds. At the time, it was estimated to be worth 4.5 billion Tanzanian shillings ($1,898,107.08 USD). The find was, and continues to be, deeply important to the people of Tanzania. In a ceremony commemorating the find, Dotto Biteko, the country’s Minister of Minerals, noted that President Jakaya Kikwete wished to prevent the sale of the two jewels to a foreign bidder. “In order to show the world that we are rich with minerals, the president ordered that these stones be purchased and placed in our museums so that people can truly understand that Tanzania is the true source of Tanzanite in the world,” Biteko said.
5. Queen of Kilimanjaro Tiara
In 2024, Malaysian jeweler Amee Philips created a magnificent tanzanite and diamond tiara for that year’s Miss UniWorld, a prestigious international beauty pageant. The regal adornment featured 125.9 cts. t.w. tanzanites amid 138 cts.t.w. diamonds mounted in an openwork design composed of ribbon-like loops and swoops. “Tanzanites are only found in one place in the world—Tanzania—and they are expected to be mined out in less than 10 years,” Philips’ gemmologist and executive director Richard Latsch Philips told Robb Report at the time. “To source and select the tanzanites alone took us a month and half to determine the ideal match of size and color.” Pageant winner Karla Majam from the Philippines wore the Kilimanjaro Tiara for her moment of glory; according to some sources, it is now the domain of a private collection.
Arusha Oval-Cut Tanzanite. Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams
6. Arusha Oval-Cut Tanzanite
When Bonhams Los Angeles put this gorgeous tanzanite up for sale in its 2018 Lapidary Works of Art, Gemstones, Minerals and Natural History auction, it proclaimed the oval-cut stone one of the finest tanzanites to have been offered by its Natural History department. You can see why: At 36.08 cts., it’s about the size of a quarter, clean and clear, and a remarkable, almost neon blue-violet color—a consummate example of tanzanite’s distinctive attributes. This spectacular gem fetched a final hammer price of $31,250.
Petersen Tanzanite Brooch. Photo: Courtesy of the Smithsonian
7. Petersen Tanzanite Brooch
Gifted to the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in 2002 by former Ford executive Donald Petersen and his wife, Joanne, this Harry Winston brooch joins our list of important tanzanites for its inclusion of two perfectly matched examples of the stone. The modified triangular cut gems weigh approximately 30 cts. t.w. and possess the highly-prized intense sapphire-blue with flashes of violet that collectors tend to covet (and jump on the chance to purchase). Joined by 24 cts. t.w. of marquise, pear and baguette cut diamonds, the blossoms detach from the stems to be worn as earrings.
Cover: Tiffany & Co.'s trio of “owl on a rock” brooches
Photo: The Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste Collection
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