"Torchon" of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras.
Photo: David Escalante
Thomas Keller Shares 4 Signature Dishes That Define Per Se
As the three-star Michelin restaurant celebrates its 20th anniversary, the legendary chef looks back on its most memorable courses
Chef Thomas Keller. Photo: David Escalante
When Chef Thomas Keller opened Per Se in Manhattan two decades, the culinary world took note. Some doubted he could recreate the magic he conjured at The French Laundry in Napa Valley in a skyscraper then known as the Time Warner Center. But from the moment that Per Se opened its blue doors in February of 2004, it was clear Keller could.
As a result, Per Se ignited a new wave of innovation and expectations in New York’s dining scene. Now celebrating its 20th anniversary, the three-star Michelin restaurant still holds its place in the top echelon of city’s dining destinations. But even more than that, Per Se has created 20 years’ worth of delectable memories as well as dishes inspired by its signatures around the world.
Ice sculpture celebrating Per Se's 20th anniversary. Photo: David Escalante
But proving that lightning can indeed strike twice was no easy task. “The fundamental foundation of this restaurant came from The French Laundry,” explained Keller at the lavish anniversary celebration of the restaurant, attended by culinary luminaries including Ruth Reichl, Grant Achatz, and Daniel Boulud. “What I think made this restaurant so great fairly quickly was the fact that we closed The French Laundry for five months and moved 30 people to New York to help train,” he added. “When we opened this restaurant with that group from The French Laundry, it was just magical.”
Here, Keller shares the story behind some of Per Se’s most memorable courses:
Salmon Cornet. Photo: David Escalante
1. Salmon Cornet
“I first did the coronet in 1991 for an event in Los Angeles. It became one of the signatures at French Laundry and was always more of an experience than a course. The idea was to reduce the intimidation and make people smile right off the bat. If you can’t smile at the coronet, it’s like you have no sense of humor.”
Oysters and Pearls. Photo: David Escalante
2. Oysters and Pearls
“I was walking through a grocery store and seeing a purple box, purple is such an unusual color to see in a store. It caught my eye, and I picked it up and it was pearl tapioca, and I thought about how actual pearls come from oysters. That led me down the path. Tapioca pudding is something we all know with such a recognizable texture, just making it savory as opposed to sweet and putting oysters on top of it with caviar. It’s very simple, but it required awareness and recognition. There’s that that connection between oysters and pearls, and then making it luxurious with caviar.”
Coffee and Doughnuts. Photo: Meg Smith
3. Coffee and Doughnuts
“Coffee and doughnuts really developed out of the, out of a need. I just lost my job in but I had I had committed to doing an event at the Beard House here in New York. So, I’m by myself and had to produce a menu without a pastry chef. My apartment was right across the street from a strip mall with an old-fashioned doughnut and coffee shop, and that gave me the idea for creating my own version.”
"Torchon" of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras. Photo: David Escalante
4. “Torchon” of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras (Foie Gras served with Fresh Brioche)
When you get the second round of warm, fresh brioche with the foie gras, there’s a sense of awareness, sense of luxury. There’s a connection between you and the guest that’s just like, not just se dropping the foie and leaving the course. It’s like, OK, we’re going to take care of you by giving you another slice.”
Cover: "Torchon" of Élevages Périgord Moulard Duck Foie Gras.
Photo: David Escalante
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