The Ultimate Art Lover’s Guide to San Francisco
Thomas Campbell shares where to eat, shop, and find inspiration ahead of the San Francisco Fall Show
As Director and CEO of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco—the de Young and The Legion of Honor—Thomas Campbell has overseen programming that seeks to balance the traditional with more boundary-pushing, experimental work, thereby appealing to a broader and more diverse audience. Among the fall exhibition highlights are “Art of Manga” at the de Young and “Manet & Morisot” at the Legion of Honor, while this spring will feature “Paul McCartney Photographs 1963–64: Eyes of the Storm,” a selection of more than 250 personal photos by McCartney that offer a behind-the-scenes look into the meteoric rise of Beatlemania.
To coincide with the San Francisco Fall Show (October 16–19), Campbell shares with Galerie some of the best places to enjoy the city’s natural beauty, exceptional restaurants, and art throughout the Bay Area.
What makes San Francisco an interesting city for the arts?
While it is the 17th largest city in the country, it has music, art, theater, and ballet that are all in the top ranks. This is largely thanks to a long-established culture of patronage that continues into the modern day. The de Young was established in the 1890s, while the Legion of Honor opened in 1924, and when the former was damaged in the 1989 earthquake, Diane Wilsey led the charge to raise money for the Herzog & de Meuron building that we have today. This spirit is found throughout the Bay Area: SFMoMA with the outstanding Fisher Collection; Laurene Powell Jobs, who has stepped up at the San Francisco Fine Art Institute to platform young artists; and Mikkel Svane, whose Svane Gift to the de Young highlights the work of local, emerging Bay Area artists.
What exhibitions or other cultural happenings are you particularly excited about now?
I’m excited about our “Art of Manga” show—an exploration of the world of Japanese comics and graphic novels—at the de Young, which will likely draw visitors in fun cosplay outfits. On the more traditional side, “Manet & Morisot” will explore the relationship between these two Impressionist artists, and how they influenced each other. “Suzanne Jackson: What is Love” at the SFMoMA is a six-decade retrospective that I am looking forward to, as well as the New Japanese Clay show at the Asian Art Museum. The Museum of the African Diaspora is always on my list, and I am looking forward to the debut of The Monkey King—a new and innovative opera at the San Francisco Opera in November.
Are there public spaces, parks, or neighborhoods that are particularly interesting now?
San Francisco is a garden city because of the mild temperature, so there is always something in bloom. The de Young is set in Golden Gate Park, while the Legion of Honor is in Lincoln Park. Both are spectacular. The Lands End Trail stretches from the Golden Gate straight out to the Pacific with stellar views along the way. Another favorite is the Presidio Park with expansive views of the Bay. A display of Archibald MacLeish’s poem “The Young Dead Soldiers” is prominently displayed at the National Cemetery Overlook here.
On top of Nob Hill, you’ll find Grace Cathedral with its stained-glass windows inspired by Chartres. It’s a very meditative place. For a different feel, Jackson Square is an old warehouse district that is full of new galleries and shops, and of course Chinatown is always charismatic. The iconic TransAmerica building is interesting as it’s part of a project by Foster + Partners. The area is very dynamic now. A bit further out, The Dog Patch area, Chrissie Fields, and Baker Beach are the places to find interesting art and beautiful views across the Bay.
In terms of hotels, where do you recommend art and design fans stay now?
In Japantown, I like The Kabuki Hotel, with its Michelin-starred Thai restaurant, Nari, and a fantastic bar. Just across the Golden Gate Bridge in Sausalito, Cavallo Point is set in an old military post and has a very high-end spa and beautiful grounds. The 1 Hotel is new and has a strong emphasis on sustainability and design and is well-located on the waterfront. For something a bit farther afield, The Stavrand in the beautiful Russian River area in Sonoma has just been renovated. The Farm House Inn is another area gem. The historic Madrona in the town of Healdsburg is among the vineyards and a very peaceful escape. Over in the Napa Valley, Meadowood and the nearby Indian Springs in Calistoga are both fantastic. The latter has a fantastic Olympic-size mineral pool.
Are there stores that are particularly well-curated or offer something unique to the city?
One that is very specifically “San Francisco” is Heath Ceramics in the Mission, where they produce minimalist, enduring pieces. Also, the City Lights bookstore, William Stout Architectural Books, in the Jackson Square neighborhood has interesting titles. There is lots of general shopping in Hayes Valley and along Polk Street in particular. MMclay studio in Hayes Valley showcases Japanese-style earthenware in a small, creative space. And I need to mention the FAMSF Museum stores for our selections of manga books, paper goods, memorabilia, and more.
In terms of restaurants, where do you recommend for visitors?
At the highest end, you have Chef Dominique Crenn’s Atelier Crenn and the three Michelin-starred Quince by Chef Michael Tusk. Exquisite Chinese cuisine is found at Mister Jiu’s and for dim sum the Harbor View terrace, overlooking the Ferry Building on Embarcadero Plaza. I also like Yank Sing in the Rincon Center—the food is amazing. For outstanding Italian—particularly the focaccia—I like Cotogna in Jackson Square, and Bix offers great food in an old speakeasy setting. San Francisco is a real coffee-and-baked goods town and Jane the Baker and Tartine Bakery are among the very best.
Are there other art and design highlights not to be missed?
The San Francisco Fall Show showcases decorative arts, modern and contemporary art, antiques, as well as jewelry, while FOG Design+Art at the end of January is always a highlight with a focus on international contemporary design and art. There is an incredibly vibrant art community here with Altman Siegel on Minnesota Street, the long-standing Berggruen Gallery, Fraenkel Gallery for photography, Jessica Silverman for contemporary art, and Gallery Wendi Norris for Surrealist art among the standouts.