The 11 Most Spectacular High Jewelry Creations from Paris Couture
Dazzling pieces by Cartier and Ana Khouri are among the standouts
While the twice-yearly haute couture fashion shows in Paris may cause the most buzz, January and July are also when the world’s most exclusive high jewelry houses and artisanal jewelers reveal their latest one-of-a-kind creations at the prestigious Place Vendôme. Employing whimsical storytelling, imaginative designs, and a plethora of precious stones, these are the standout pieces and trends from the haute joaillerie presentations this week.
1. The Portraits of Nature high jewelry collection by De Beers is inspired by the intrinsic beauty of the natural world. The mix of polished and rough fancy colored diamonds are the most extraordinary, including this Krysna Chameleon cocktail ring, which features a 1.5-carat fancy deep yellow diamond surrounded by baguette white diamonds and petals of brown, yellow, and green diamonds. debeers.com
2. The latest high jewelry collection by Cartier is all about juxtapositions with unusual combinations of precious stones and ornamental hard stones like lapis lazuli, imperial topaz, black sapphire, and blue and gray-green jade. This showstopping necklace, for example, features a 15.48-carat Sri Lankan yellow sapphire surrounded by a cosmic web of lapis lazuli beads and a sprinkling of yellow, orange, and white diamonds. cartier.com
3. With a background in fine art, the buzzy New York designer Ana Khouri has made waves in the jewelry world with her sculptural, cutting-edge approach. (Khouri was recently named one of Galerie’s Creative Minds.) In Paris, she presented her Harmony collection, which includes a stunning ear cuff crafted with 18K white gold and dripping with briolette-shaped diamonds that sits perfectly along the ear. anakhouri.com
4. Gucci is the latest brand to debut its wares at the Place Vendôme with the launch of a small boutique at No. 16 Place Vendôme. There, visitors saw both fine jewelry and its first high jewelry collection. Dubbed Hortus Deliciarum, or Garden of Delights, the 200-piece collection, spearheaded by creative director Alessandro Michele, features three magical worlds: Animal Kingdom, Hearts & Arrows, and Solitaires—all seen through the prism of a mythical garden. Like everything else he conceives, Michele is directly involved in the create process, even picking the exact gemstones himself. gucci.com
Recommended: The 8 Most Dazzling Pieces at the Bulgari Exhibition in Rome
5. David Yurman and his son, Evan, spotlight the beauty of natural stones with their Artist Series. Drawing on David’s background as a sculptor, each piece begins with a gouache, which then guides the team of master artisans. To create this one-of-a-kind necklace and matching earrings, the Yurmans spent years hand selecting the perfect turquoise stones from around the world, which are then enhanced with pavé rubies. davidyurman.com
6. The Paris-based jewelry house Van Cleef and Arpels has reinterpreted Shakespeare’s romantic story with a dazzling 100-piece collection titled Romeo & Juliet. Here, the story comes to life in a whimsical imagining of the lovers’ balcony with cascading vines crafted in emeralds and diamonds. vancleefarpels.com
7. Along with a selection of some of the house’s most extraordinary stones and rare-colored gems, Graff proves that timepieces can be considered jewels in their own right. This striking watch from its new Threads collection features a web of rectangular diamond bars totaling 5.85 carats. graff.com
8. Chanel took inspiration from old-world Russia in an ode to Coco Chanel’s liaison with Russia’s Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich, the cousin of Czar Nicolas II, who was sent into exile following the murder of Rasputin. The 69-piece collection, dubbed Le Paris Russe de Chanel, celebrates the lost splendor of the country through the lens of Coco Chanel, with allusions to military orders as well as Russian folklore and richly colored fabrics. Here, the diamonds, sapphires, spinels, and tourmalines found on the Ble Maria brooch are inspired by Russian decorative arts. chanel.com
9. Louis Vuitton pays homage to powerful medieval heroines for its high jewelry collection. This stunning Royaume choker, featuring a 19.31-carat royal blue sapphire sitting within a web of 1,600 diamonds, recalls both the architectural lines from a fortress and mimics the shape of a gorget, a special piece of armor that was designed to protect the throat. us.louisvuitton.com
10. Chaumet’s 88-piece collection, dubbed the Ciels of Chaumet, recalls the shapes and colors of the sky. Here, a dramatic brooch in white and rose gold is set with an oval-cut red spinel weighing 5.38 carats, a briolette-cut Mandarin garnet weighing 4.77 carats, and a range of yellow sapphires, mandarin garnets, and brilliant-cut diamonds. chaumet.com
11. Informed by her background as a classically trained cellist, Taiwan-born Anna Hu‘s latest collection, titled Silk Road Music, is inspired by the music and culture from the most ancient route in the world. This lyrical Rachmaninov bracelet is inspired by the Russian composer and the architecture of St. Basil’s cathedral and features a kaleidoscope of rare gemstones. annahu.com