Discover the Most Stunning Jewels at Paris Haute Couture Week
From a Boucheron set featuring twin shoulder brooches to Pomellato's three-piece parure inspired by Milan's Teatro alla Scala
Last week’s edition of the fashion extravaganza known as Paris Haute Couture Week (Jan. 26-29) saw the debut of several important haute joallerie pieces. While the lion’s share of high jewelry presentations often take place in July, the wintertime scene sparkled to a similar effect. Encompassing everything from the extravagant to the infinitely wearable, some jewels highlighted jaw-dropping diamonds and gemstones, while others stressed innovative design or heritage creations reimagined as modern heirlooms.
Boucheron
Boucheron’s high jewelry presentation captured all three of these elements at once with its tribute to the maison’s founder, Frédéric Boucheron. Embracing his innovative approach to jewelry design, creative director Claire Choisne premiered four impressive jewels in gold and diamonds. All take inspiration from the maison’s archives while highlighting key facets of Mr. Boucheron’s legacy: Two “Question Mark” necklaces reimagine the iconic claspless style that Mr. Boucheron pioneered in 1884, while another design dangles an octagonal pendant shaped like the Place Vendôme (where the Boucheron flagship is famously located). And Choisne’s elegantly draped “shoulder ornament” borrows from archival works that similarly meet at the intersection of jewelry and clothing. This unique set can be worn in a variety of ways: as twin shoulder brooches, necklaces in a variety of lengths, a pair of bracelets, and more.
Graff
Graff, the London-based jeweler known for its exceptional diamonds, premiered a new high jewelry suite in its Paris flagship: The wide diamond choker centering a rare 31-carat unheated emerald cut sapphire was inspired by the moment a single droplet splashes into a pool of water. Matching earrings, each set with a 5-carat sapphire, completes the composition for the ultimate “more is more” accent to, say, a Dior couture gown by Jonathan Anderson.
Messika
A relative newcomer to the world of high jewelry, Messika has become well-known for its fiercely modern vision of diamond bijoux, from megawatt showstoppers to très chic wearables. During Paris Haute Couture week, founder Valerie Messika presented a mix of both categories, including a sautoir set ablaze with rhodolite garnet beads and thousands of tiny diamonds.
Mellerio
Mellerio, the heritage jewelry maison founded in 1613 (that famously counted one Marie Antoinette as a client), showcased expansions of its core collections such as Cabinet de Curiosités, a series of charms and medallions depicting archival motifs such as sun and moon faces, a pineapple, and a horse.
Pomellato
Finally, the Italian design house Pomellato unveiled Scala di Luce, a three-piece parure inspired by Milan’s Teatro alla Scala. The suite is anchored by a statement necklace that combines the smooth elegance of a 1970s-era round-link chain with the sharp geometry of diamonds in multiple shapes and sizes.