Creative Mind: Elie Top

The trailblazing French designer is known for his striking pieces that blend Art Deco and Baroque styles with a contemporary twist

Hand with dark red nails displaying ornate rings with red gemstones and pearls on a black background
The Avalon Maltese cross pendent seen with the ruby and diamond Bouclier ring. Photo: Hugues Laurent, Courtesy of Elie Top

Elie Top approaches each piece of jewelry like an architect. “Everything I do is about system and structure,” says the trailblazing French designer known for his striking pieces that blend Art Deco and Baroque styles with a contemporary twist. “The technical challenge is what drives me. Even if I’m designing animal-inspired jewelry, underneath it’s like a cathedral. I am always imagining a little building,” he says.

After nearly 20 years at top fashion houses, first as an illustrator at Yves Saint Laurent and later as a jewelry designer at Lanvin under creative director Alber Elbaz, who empowered him to realize his first jewelry pieces at just 21 years old, Top launched his namesake company in 2015. “Not working with the seasonality of fashion gives me so much more time to refine and develop my ideas,” he says. His signature collections include Magica Naturae, featuring a curious group of fanciful creatures, and most recently, Liaisons Dangereuses, an assortment distinguished by brilliant- and old-cut diamonds suspended in intricate cage-like forms.

Man with mustache wearing plaid suit and scarf, clapping hands against a dark background in a black and white photo.
Elie Top. Photo: COURTESY OF ELIE TOP

After nearly 20 years at top fashion houses, first as an illustrator at Yves Saint Laurent and later as a jewelry designer at Lanvin under creative director Alber Elbaz, who empowered him to realize his first jewelry pieces at just 21 years old, Top launched his namesake company in 2015. “Not working with the seasonality of fashion gives me so much more time to refine and develop my ideas,” he says. His signature collections include Magica Naturae, featuring a curious group of fanciful creatures, and most recently, Liaisons Dangereuses, an assortment distinguished by brilliant- and old-cut diamonds suspended in intricate cage-like forms.

Gold and silver cuff bracelet with diamond accents in a lattice pattern, viewed from the front.
Merteuil cuff from the Liaisons Dangereuses collection. Photo: Courtesy of Elie Top
Intricate gold and silver ornate earrings with spiral and teardrop designs encrusted with gemstones.
Merteuil Girandole earrings from the Liaisons Dangereuses collection. Photo: Courtesy of Elie Top
Gold double ring with intricate design and gemstone accents on a white background.
Tourvel ring from the Liaisons Dangereuses collection. Photo: Courtesy of Elie Top

Learning curve: Never formally trained in jewelry, Top studied the craft by voraciously reading books and going through hundreds of old auction catalogues, inventing blind tests for himself to identify makers and eras. “To me, history is food. You need to know the past to be able to do something entirely new. And jewelry has to be relevant for today. It’s my obsession. I want to create things that are bold and wearable and not kept in a safe.”

Exquisite diamond-studded brooch with spiral and teardrop designs, set against a glossy black background.
Valmont brooch paved with diamonds. Photo: Hugues Laurent, Courtesy of Elie Top
Silver chain necklaces with a gold crescent moon and horseshoe pendant, featuring small embedded gemstones, on a dark background.
Mini lune charm and the mini fer à cheval charm. Photo: Hugues Laurent, Courtesy of Elie Top
Gold and black cuff bracelets with opal stones and intricate designs on a dark reflective surface.
Bandeau cuff studded with an opal surrounded by diamonds, akoya pearls and white sapphires. Photo: Hugues Laurent, Courtesy of Elie Top

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2026 Spring Issue in the section “Creative Minds.” Subscribe to the magazine.