Rochas spring 2023 runway show.
Photo: Courtesy of Rochas
Creative Mind: Charles de Vilmorin
The artistic director of Rochas is wowing the fashion world with headline-making collections distinguished by unique silhouettes, hand-painted illustrations, and bold palettes
Charles de Vilmorin. Photo: SIMONE BATTISTONI; COURTESY OF HIMCO
Taking the reins of one of France’s oldest fashion houses and turning it into one of the most buzzed about contemporary brands is no small feat. But that’s exactly what fashion designer Charles de Vilmorin has done. In 2021, at just 24 years old, de Vilmorin was appointed artistic director of Rochas, and since then, he has wowed the fashion world with headline-making collections distinguished by unique silhouettes, hand-painted illustrations, and bold palettes that straddle the fine line between beautiful and macabre.
Runway look from the Rochas spring 2023 collection. Photo: Courtesy of Rochas
Runway look from the Rochas spring 2023 collection. Photo: COURTESY OF ROCHAS
Breakout moment: In 2020, just a year after graduating from the École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, de Vilmorin launched his eponymous collection on Instagram with a line of patchwork quilted jackets that recall works by artist Niki de Saint Phalle.
Signature Style: Unique silhouettes, hand-painted illustrations, and bold palettes that dance a fine line between beauty and the macabre.
Design by Charles de Vilmorin. Photo: Courtesy of Charles de Vilmorin
Sketch by Charles de Vilmorin. Photo: Courtesy of Charles de Vilmorin
Latest looks: His spring 2023 collection for Rochas was offered with an abundance of ruffles, sculptural silk, and cascading organza. The show captured that magnetic energy of the hours just after the party has ended. “The night on the edge of day,” he writes in his collection notes. “The sleepless night that pulses with joy.”
Today, the young star designs for both Rochas and his own label, with which he challenges convention by creating genderless couture and spectacular, art-inspired looks.
A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2023 Spring Issue under the headline “Creative Minds.” Subscribe to the magazine.
Cover: Rochas spring 2023 runway show.
Photo: Courtesy of Rochas
