See the Most Showstopping Jewelry from Feud: Capote vs. the Swans

The impeccable styling can be credited to celebrated costume designer Lou Eyrich, who has worked with Murphy for some 20 years. Together with her team of designers Leah Katznelson and Rudy Mance, they spent time brushing up on the era through an assortment of books and research material. “I was so excited when I heard that this was going to be made,” Eyrich told Galerie over Zoom from her L.A. home. “I already had so many books and luckily there is so much written about Capote and the Swans and specifically the jewelry—and what was documented. And the women were always being photographed—particularly Lee Radziwill, who was a darling of the paparazzi.”

One book that served as inspiration was Jet Set by William Stadiem, for example, and there were others that delved into the specific fashion and styles and jewelry. A remarkable effort was made to capture the exceptional glamour of this era. “We picked up on those moments and then went out and spoke to the jewelry houses, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Schlumberger, Verdura and Belperron, working closely over the months to borrow the key pieces.”

The show centers around Babe Paley, portrayed beautifully by Naomi Watts, who was the epitome of elegance and class. “She hit just the right tone and it was never too much. It was just sheer elegance. She was very minimalist in her style. We’d add something like an elegant button earring or a delicate drop for jewelry. She would wear a lot of Valentino and her bags were always Hermes.”

Slim Keith, played by Diane Lane, was a California girl, exuding a more casual style and a penchant towards menswear. “It’s said that she was responsible for creating Lauren Bacall’s look,” adds Eyrich. “She’d wear high-waisted pants and a blouse or jacket with shoulder pads and not much embellishment. She wore a lot of American designers like Bill Glass and Ralph Lauren.” C.Z. Guest, meanwhile, played by Chloë Sevigny, encapsulated a sense of East Coast preppiness—cardigan sweaters and often a simple strand of pearls.

A favorite moment for Eyrich was at the famous Black and White ball, where Molly Ringwald playing Joanne Carson requested a Calder necklace for her dress. “Getting to see that process with the art handlers bringing it in with their gloves and delicately attaching this gorgeous piece of art—that’s something I am so glad I didn’t miss.”

At the time, many of the major jewelry houses were commissioned to create custom pieces for the Swans, who were some of their biggest patrons. When Duke Fulco di Verdura opened his salon on Fifth Avenue in 1939, for example, he had developed close friendships with several of the women. Babe Paley and Nancy “Slim” Keith, in particular, were among his best clients and dearest friends, as were Lee Radziwill and Ann Woodward. “We were delighted that so much of our jewelry was captured on screen- occasionally even as an integral part of the plot as was with the rubellite X bracelet and Pearl Y necklace,” says Nico Landrigan, President Verdura & Belperron. “It’s refreshing to know that great style never goes out of fashion.”