A New Bulgari High Jewelry Exhibition in Tokyo Celebrates the Power of Color
“Bulgari Kaleidos: Colors, Cultures and Crafts” at the National Arts Center showcases 350 chromatic masterpieces and new contemporary art commissions
There’s perhaps no jewelry house more synonymous with color than Bulgari, which pioneered its daring and bold combinations of semi-precious and precious gemstones—think tourmalines and turquoise set in gold alongside sapphires, rubies, and emeralds—in the 1950s. Now, a must-see new exhibition “Bulgari Kaleidos: Colors, Cultures and Crafts,” on view at the National Arts Center in Tokyo, celebrates that unique history and marks the largest-ever presentation by the brand in Japan.
On view through December 15, the showcase features nearly 350 exquisite examples drawn from the Roman high jeweler’s Heritage Collection of archival pieces as well as special loans from prestigious private collections. An artful journey through color, the show is a timeless celebration of the dialogue between Italy and Japan, art and imagination, beauty and craftsmanship.
The title “Kaleidos” is drawn from the Greek word kalos for beautiful and eidos, meaning form. It was in the mid-20th century that Bulgari spearheaded a dramatic pivot in the world of high jewelry. At a time when platinum and monochromatic designs reigned supreme, the maison took a bold leap by embracing a vivid palette, fearlessly incorporating gems that were once considered “semi-precious,” such as amethyst, citrine, and turquoise, and introducing its signature cabochon cut.
The exhibition is structured into three thematic sections: The Science of Color, Color Symbolism, and The Power of Light. It features a range of pieces, from early designs by the founder, Sotirio Bulgari, to more modern works like the Seven Wonders emerald necklace and iconic 1960s-era sautoirs. The show is enhanced by new art commissions from contemporary talents Lara Favaretto, Mariko Mori, and Akiko Nakayama, who each offer their personal reflections on color.
The first chapter of the show explores hue through a scientific lens. It is here that Turin-based artist Favaretto’s striking installation Level Five packs a chromatic punch. In the second chapter, the cultural and symbolic dimensions of color are investigated, revealing the expression of meaning and emotion through chromatic choices, a dialogue reflected in Mori’s Onogoro Stone Ill. Mori’s Stone series, comprised of ethereal acrylic sculptures coated in dichroic film, pays homage to Iwakura, the Japanese spirit stones believed to serve as dwellings or conduits for deities. With its spectral surfaces and shifting color, the sculpture captures the viewers movement in the light. Here in this section, there are rare jade jewels featured alongside the legendary circa-1961 platinum necklace Seven Wonders, that is set with diamonds and seven magnificent emeralds.
The third chapter looks at the role of light and perception of color. At its heart is a one-of-a-kind 1969 yellow gold sautoir that can be transformed into bracelets which is set with amethysts, turquoises, citrines, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds—a kaleidoscopic masterpiece. The artwork Echo by the trailblazing Japanese artist Akiko Nakayama brings to life how light interacts with reflective materials.
The preview night, which took place on September 17, brought together a glittering array of esteemed guests. Among them were Her Imperial Highness Princess Takamado; Yuriko Koike, governor of Tokyo, the Italian Ambassador to Japan, Gianluigi Benedetti; Bulgari brand ambassadors Kim Ji Won, Jang Wonyong, Hikari Mori, and Tomohisa Yamashita; as well as acclaimed talents Kento Nakajima, Exile Akira, Non, Haruka Igawa, Miyavi, Mirei Kiritani, Aya Omasa, Koyuki, and Ren Meguro.
The night culminated in a gala dinner curated by Il Ristorante Niko Romito of The Bulgari Hotel Tokyo and staged in the grand atrium of the National Art Center. Against the backdrop of the museum’s soaring architecture, guests enjoyed a refined experience with music by composer and pianist Roberto Cacciapaglia and an entrancing performance by vocalist Kanna Ogawa.
“Bulgari Kaleidos: Colors, Cultures and Crafts” is on view through December 15 at the National Art Center, Tokyo.