The Ultimate Art and Design Lover’s Guide to Switzerland

Art on the Parc

For lovers of art and design, a stay at the Baur au Lac—a sumptuous, family-owned property that is lovingly overseen by its seventh generation—is a must. Set on a spectacular park just steps from the lake, the bustling Bahnhofstrasse, and with views of the Alps beyond, art and design are central to the hotel’s premise. Swiss craftsmanship is found at every turn; from the lobby’s striking fireplace surround that bears the Baur au Lac floral motif, custom made in St. Gallen by Kunstgiesserie, to the stunning painting of the Baur au Lac parc by Swiss artist, Nicolas Party, that graces the entrance. “We asked him to paint his version of our park,” explains owner and art enthusiast, Marguita Kracht, of the commission. “He created a breathtaking work that features the mountains, the lake, and our park—all rendered in his signature pastels. True to his artistry, Nicolas added a whimsical touch: the lake sparkles with a hint of pink. When I asked him about the pink, he explained, “It’s the reflection of the moon as seen through my eyes!”

With two restaurants by Martin Brudnizski Design Studio—the all-day, buzzing brasserie Baur’s that has become a mainstay for locals and guests alike, and the Mediterranean-inflected, Marguita—no touch has been overlooked. Exquisite mosaic floors by third-generation masters, Moruzzi, are complimented by 36 pieces of carefully curated art in Baur’s including a custom work by Rashid Johnson that incorporates mosaic tile, broken glass, ceramic, and black soap. A commissioned collage by Brooklyn-based Matthew Day Jackson is another highlight, as are two gouache-on-paper works by Louise Bourgeois and three Dieter Roth pieces that hang in the dedicated Cigar Lounge area.

The family’s preference for great art and design is not limited to the hotel’s public spaces, however, and each of its 119 guest rooms (including 27 junior suites and 18 suites) in styles ranging from Art Deco to Louis XVI to English Regency features contemporary touches as well. All the furnishings have been hand crafted for the Baur au Lac, right down to the gilded picture frames that are crafted by a local artisan. Textiles sourced from Italy—Rubelli, Fortuny—and France—Lelièvre, Pierre Frey—create cosseting environments that are further enhanced by Le Corbusier lithographs and photographs from Alberto Giacommetti and René Groebli that line the subtle walls. “Each piece has been chosen with care, carrying its own unique stories and meaningful connections with the artists directly,” explains Gigi Kracht of her curation. “Rather than resembling a museum, the art is chosen to live seamlessly within our spaces, fostering a sense of discovery and inspiring conversations among our guests.”

It is easy to see how this hotel-cum-gallery has become a hub for the art and design worlds, particularly in the lead up to Art Basel in June. It was a friendship between frequent guest and artist Fernando Botero and the hotel’s owner, Gigi Kracht, that led to the creation of the first Art in the Park exhibition 25 years ago. “‘Gigi, yours is the only hotel property in Zurich with such a beautifully maintained park, with trees hundreds of years old,’” recounts Kracht. “It would be a tragedy not to create something iconic that brings immense pleasure to your guests dining on the terrace during the summer months,’” The annual exhibition occurs on the Sunday before the opening of the Art Basel VIP preview and has become a celebrated event in the international art world. Last year’s edition—William Kentridge at Art in the Park, Zurich with Hauser & Wirth—also featured an indoor presentation by Martin Creed and Rita Ackermann. Details of the June event are closely held until the week before the installation to add to the overall excitement.

The hotel is also the perfect jumping off point for current exhibitions including at the three Hauser & Wirth outposts throughout the city. Just steps from the hotel a colorful show of metal furniture—“Judd, Lewitt & Made by Lehni” is on view through February 22, while “Uman. A Fantastic Woman” and “Rachel Kedoori” are both on view through May 23, at the Limmatstrasse location within the Löwenbräukunst contemporary arts complex.

Meanwhile, in St. Moritz….

As ever, it’s much more than snow polo and furry boots in this chic mountain town in the canton of Graubunden—one where an international art crowd meets serious outdoor enthusiasts throughout the seasons.

This winter brings major art and design news—from the “Jean-Michel Basquiat. Engadin” exhibition at Hauser & Wirth, on view through March 29, to “The Neverending Story: The Dream, 100 Years of Surrealism” at Vito Schnabel to be followed by “The Neverending Story: Part II,” curated by Bob Colacello, on view February 15 through March 29.

The former show is directly inspired by Basquiat’s early trips to Zurich and the Engadin, and the monumental works on view were inspired by the Swiss Alps and surrounding culture, but as seen through his distinctive, personal artistic approach. German phrases, fir trees, and skiers all mix with elements referencing the African Diaspora, and the results are mixed media works that illustrate his love for Switzerland. The show at Vito Schnabel is similarly a feast for the eyes with works by Surrealist greats including Salvador Dali, Yves Tanguy, and Giorgio de Chirico paired with dramatic pieces such as Isabelle Albuquerque’s Orgy for Ten People in One Body—an arresting mix of resin, human hair, coyote claws and a wedding ring.

Of special note this month is NOMAD St. Moritz, an annual platform for contemporary art and design that features immersive, site-specific installations and exhibitions. On view from February 20 through 23, this year’s programming will be set in the former Klinik Gut—a current construction site—that’s set to highlight global galleries including Nilufar and Galleria Rossana Orlandi from Milan, Todd Merrill Studio from New York, Elizabeth Roer, Paris, and many more. In addition to exhibits, visitors partake in artist-led talks, architectural tours of local landmarks, as well as visits to local collections in some of St. Moritz’s most storied private chalets.

Fans of great architecture are spoiled for choice, too, with The Kulm Hotel’s ambitious ice pavilion and Kulm Country Club by local resident, Sir Norman Foster, taking center stage in town. Built just before the pandemic, the sculptural ice pavilion with its grandstand and restaurant is now at one with the scenery and is frequented by curious tourists and locals alike who gather for après-ski cocktails and lively dinners by Michelin-starred Mauro Colagrecco.

The hotel also boasts the innovative Amaru, a new Peruvian restaurant with celebrated chef Claudia Canessa. The original vaulted space has been magically transformed by British graphic artist and interior designer, Luke Edward Hall, using a warm palette of yellows, pinks and greens to create an Andean-alpine aesthetic. Olive green wood paneling, a handwoven carpet featuring an antelope pattern, and the striking ceiling vaults that have been hand-painted by British artist, Timna Woollard, create a literal feast for the senses that is perfectly paired with Canessa’s flavorful takes on Peruvian street cuisine.

At the end of art-filled, off-piste days, warm, pine-paneled rooms by Pierre Yves Rochon in hues of cream and blue welcome guests with their views of Lake St. Moritz and the Alps beyond. To cap off any evening head for the Altitude Bar just off the lobby, where the glitterati gather to sip champagne, surrounded by more world-class art.

The Charm of Vals

Accessible by the scenic Rhaetian Railway from Zurich, this small town is an architecture geek’s dream come true. With the 7132 Hotel and 7132 House of Architects masterminded by award-winning architects including Tadao Ando, Kengo Kuma, Thom Mayne, and Peter Zumthor, this is a truly unique offering in the heart of the Alps. Originally built in the 1960s as a thermal spa getaway, the House of Architects has been transformed by the four architects—each in his own design vernacular—into a luxurious, if compact, lodging offering. Rooms by Tadao Ando, for example, feature the Japanese minimalist signatures—all neutral wood, glass, and stone—seen in traditional houses and that never competes with the forested landscape outside.

Similarly, cozy rooms by Kengo Kuma incorporate a pared back, Japanese aesthetic using oak and glass, while his three sleek-yet-luxurious Penthouse Suites at the 5-star 7132 Hotel offering sprawling spaces with living room soaking baths. Pritzker Prize-winner Peter Zumthor’s ten rooms feature an Italian plastering technique called stucco lustro that lends a vibrant, lacquer-like hue to the spaces, while Thom Mayne’s 22 rooms are paneled in dark timber or Vals quartzite, with futuristic glass shower pods in the center of the room doubling as evanescent sculpture.

The star of the Vals show, however, is the Therme—thermal baths – designed by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor that capitalize on the highly mineralized water that comes out of the St. Peter Spring at a balmy 30° Celsius. These dark baths feature a mix of warm, hot and cold plunges, showers of varying intensity, as well as both indoor and swimming pools.  Upon check in, guests are advised to bathe with sun-up and late at night for optimal starry viewing from the comfort of the healing waters.

A walk into town yields even more architectural discoveries at the 7132-owned Glenner hotel where local Swiss touches are found in its quiet rooms. The lively restaurant is the place in town for fondue, while 7132 daPapà is the spot for authentic wood-fired pizza served by Giacomo Mura next to the ice-skating rink. Winter sports abound, too, with cross-country skiing, sledding, downhill skiing, sledding and more all within easy walking distance. On your way back to the hotel, don’t miss the 7132 Coffee Shop with its mix of architectural books, a library, and project models by the hotels’ architects. This light-filled space tells the unique story of Vals and the architectural passion project that continues to evolve.