An Insider’s Guide to Milan by JJ Martin
Ahead of Salone del Mobile, the fashion journalist-turned-designer shares where to shop, stay, and find inspiration in her adopted home city
For California-born, Milan-based designer JJ Martin, the maximalist Italian city serves as inspiration for her exuberant La DoubleJ line—an ever-evolving clothing and housewares collection synonymous with vibrant color and graphic patterns. For this year’s edition of Salone del Mobile, Martin is sharing her black book of everything from exciting events to her favorite spots for that all-important aperitivo…
How long have you lived in Milan and what does the city mean to you?
I’ve lived in Milan for 24 years and initially worked as a journalist for the Wall Street Journal, Harper’s Bazaar, and Wallpaper, and in fashion for many of those years. I launched La Double J in 2015, mostly selling vintage clothing, before collaborating with Milanese furniture maker Kartell in 2016. We infused their iconic minimalist furniture with maximalist energy by reimaging pieces like the Mademoiselle chair in vibrant, vintage-inspired 1970s patterns.
Milan in particular—and Italy in general—inspires my work: from the Renaissance art and architecture to more Baroque elements to the incredible Fascist architecture, this city is the most diverse in the country. The quality and the passion that Italians bring to everything from furniture to textiles to fashion is so inspiring. Nothing is as good as “Made in Italy.” There is care and attention to every detail, and none is better at color than the Milanese: from lime greens to mustards, to eggplant hues, Italians are attuned to the details and are inherently stylish.
What makes Salone so vibrant and unique? And what are you excited for this year?
It is unique because the whole city gets involved as opposed to Fashion Weeks, which have an air of exclusivity. Salone is very open and is a moment of connection for everyone. A good deal of the action happens in Brera, as well as at the fairground just on the outskirts of town. At La Double J, we will be presenting huge blow-up sculptures of new pieces—vases, for example—and giving away pins from our Goddess Cave. We have a new outdoor line, including poufs and pillows that will debut at Salone, as well as a new tabletop line called Fiesole that we’ve designed specifically for the Villa San Michele outside of Florence, which reopens this spring. I’m excited to see what Dimorestudio, 6:AM Glassworks, and the new Salone Raritas event—which is dedicated to collectible design—all have to offer. The Hermès exhibition and Alcova are both exciting during Design Week as well.
Where do you recommend art and design-loving visitors stay in the city?
I always say “stay central” so that you’re not dependent on transport and can walk everywhere. The Four Seasons, with its beautiful central garden, is wonderful, as is the Grand Hotel et de Milano. The Portrait is owned by the Ferragamo family and is very cozy and warm, a perfect place for an aperitivo in the garden. For something very design-led, I like Room Mate Giulia, which was designed by Patricia Urquiola, and also The Yard in the Navigli district. For sleek, classic interiors, there are the Mandarin Oriental and Bulgari hotels—both by architect Antonio Citterio—which are lively places for an aperitivo during Salone.
Any favorite restaurants and cafes?
There are so many! Pasticceria Cucchi is a cozy café where I used to write and where we now do La Double J activations. It has been in operation since 1936 and is now owned by the Giacomo family—and is something of a local institution, particularly for breakfast or an aperitivo. I also like Caffe Leonardo for watching the traditional Milanese families in a warm, classic atmosphere. Marchesi 1824 is the place for beauty—even in its iconic packaging—while Bar Basso on the opposite side of town is trendy during design and fashion weeks. Ally’s in Montenapoleone is chic and small—meet there for a drink or try clubs such as The Wilde or Cipriani if you know a member. Both have vibrant atmosphere and special programming during Salone.
Are there cultural institutions and galleries that are musts in Milan?
The Triennale is a great museum and a rare one that is dedicated entirely to design. One of the highlights during Salone is “Andrea Branzi by Toyo Ito: Continuous Present,” a major monographic exhibition dedicated to Andrea Branzi, seen through the eyes of Pritzker Prize–winning architect Toyo Ito. I also like the Planetarium—the largest in Italy—and many of the house museums: the Bagatti Valsecchi, the Rationalist-style Villa Necchi Campiglio, and Casa Atellani that once belonged to the Duke of Milan. The Fondazione Prada is wonderful, too, particularly during Salone. Another highlight is the Palazzo Reale—the former Royal Palace of Milan—where I recently saw an amazing Anselm Kiefer exhibition called “The Women Alchemists,” which is on view through September 2026.
In terms of galleries, Nilafur is wonderful for designer and vintage furniture, lighting, and general home decor. I also highly recommend Gallery Moshe Tibibnia for antique carpets and textiles. It’s a rare and beautiful find.
Do you have favorite shops around the city?
Peck is a must—a celebration of food and old school Italy—for foodies, and I highly recommend bringing home a good chunk of Parmesan or a bottle of good olive oil. For an incredible lighting store visit Navigli, where you’ll find Gio Ponti sconces and Stilnovo table lamps. Raimundo Guerra is another great resource for furniture, lighting, and more. He found my 1990s Poliform kitchen—it was installed in another apartment—and helped me move it to my home intact. For lingerie, I like Vera Persiani, and Madame Pauline is the place for incredible vintage jewelry.
Are there places outside of the city that you recommend for an excursion?
The Villa Litta, a 16th-century palazzo and park on the outskirts of Milan, is a lovely escape, and Como is only one hour from Milan, so that’s an easy day trip. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo is a lovely place for lunch on the water, and I always visit Nesso, which is a waterfall where you can swim, and it feels like a cold plunge.