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How Alice Cicolini Is Reinventing the Ancient Art of Enamel

The London-based talent crafts exuberant jewels inspired by a melting pot of cultures

By Lucy Rees
Person wearing a green outfit, standing against a floral patterned wall, looking directly at the camera.
Alice Cicolini Photo: Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Colorful gold ring with floral and geometric designs, bordered by pink gemstones.
Memphis Chevron Band with Flowers in Thai Ruby Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

British-born Alice Cicolini conjures exuberant jewels that symbolize a melting pot of cultures by using everything from Italy’s Memphis design movement to the patterns of the Silk Road as inspiration. Many of her pieces are handcrafted in Jaipur, India, in collaboration with artisans, including one skilled in the nearly lost art of meenakari enameling. The technique, originating in 17th-century Persia, requires a fusion of pigmented glass and metal to be poured onto engraved gold jewelry. “My approach is based on the concept of slow luxury, celebrating the beauty of ancient master craft and artisanship alongside fine materials,” says Cicolini. Statement stones are another dazzling feature of her work, from the intense green Muzo emeralds sourced from Colombia to green and pink tourmalines and gray Tahitian pearls. 

Career highlights: An exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum as well as at Somerset House in London. Also, a new collaboration with Carpenters Workshop Gallery launching in fall 2019.

Recommended: Meet High Jeweler Emmanuel Tarpin, De Grisogono’s New Artist-in-Residence

Design philosophy: “I take quite a curatorial approach to my work. There are a lot of narratives in the pieces, so I hope people delve into those stories and ultimately add their own.”

See some standout pieces below.

Colorful decorative knob with geometric patterns in red, green, and gold, featuring a brass handle.
Silk Route Samarkand Ring. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Hexagonal earrings with green geometric patterns adorned with pink leaves.
The back of a pair of Jaipur Bougainvillea Muzo earrings. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Gold ring with a large blue gemstone, red enamel detailing on the band, and intricate design elements.
Jodhpur Miniature Ring with aquamarine. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Colorful geometric dangle earrings with gemstones in various shapes, including purple, blue, and red accents.
Candy Lacquer Chandelier Earrings. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Gold ring with colorful leaf designs, black stripes, and green gemstones, viewed from the side showing intricate details.
The Jaipur Muzo Emerald Ring. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

Gold ring with black and red enamel floral design on a round bezel, viewed from the side showing the decorative details.
Silk Route Bird Ring in Polki Emerald. Courtesy of Alice Cicolini

A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2019 Late Fall issue under the headline “Hidden Gems.” Subscribe to the magazine.