Why Luxury Houses are Ditching Gold Chains for Cord Jewelry
Dating back to ancient Egypt, when gold amulets were strung on protective linen cords, this look is having a major revival with elevated iterations from Hermès, Bulgari, Pomellato, and more
Cord jewelry is having a major moment. It’s a compelling juxtaposition—a humble cord, usually in leather or silk, paired with precious metals and stones, results in fine jewelry that feels as effortless with a T-shirt as it does with a cocktail dress. As with many jewelry trends, this casual-chic combination has deep historical roots. In ancient Egypt, gold amulets were strung on linen cords, worn as adornment and believed to offer protection. Fast-forward to the 1970s, when Dinh Van introduced various cord jewelry designs, most notably the “Menottes” bracelet—interlocking handcuffs on leather. By the mid-2000s, leather cord surged in menswear as it offered an understated, rugged alternative to traditional gold chains or cuffs.
Today, designers are revisiting the idea, swapping chains with leather and silk strands. The timing makes sense. Earlier this year, gold prices hit a record high per ounce, driving the cost of jewelry up with it. Rethinking the idea of a “chain” helps keep costs in check. But the look is also a nod to Y2K or ‘90s style, currently experiencing a major resurgence. Now, many luxury brands are embracing the movement, offering a more accessible entry point into the world of designer jewelry.
Here, a few stylish ways to tie one on.
Double 8 Bride en Soie Bracelet | Hermès
The charming Double 8 Bride en Soie bracelet and necklace by Hermès are crafted with scraps of the maison’s iconic scarves, wrapped around cotton cord.
Moneta Orientale | Pomellato
New from Pomellato, the Moneta Orientale is a reinterpretation of a 1997 coin design now imagined as a good luck charm. There are two sizes of the circle-in-a-square design; the large features a swathe of pavé, the smaller boasts pavé griffes; in total, there are over 30 stone-and-pavé combinations.
Serpenti Forever Bracelet | Bulgari
The Bulgari Serpenti Forever Bracelet features a gold-plated enameled snake head and gold-plated scales on a polyester cord.
Elsa Peretti Bean Design Pendant | Tiffany & Co.
Elsa Peretti’s iconic Bean design debuted at Tiffany & Co. in the 1970s, and this substantial 18k gold necklace features her famous legume on an 18-inch silk cord.
Half Point Necklace | Emily P. Wheeler
Half tennis necklace, half leather cord, Emily P .Wheeler’s Half Point necklace is strung with a gradient of sapphires and 18k gold.
Care Bracelet | Messika
The diamond stones in Messika’s Care bracelet actually move, making for a quite amusing accessory. A portion of every sale benefits the Valérie Messika Foundation, which supports organizations dedicated to the well-being, protection, and education of women and children
Horsebit Charm Necklace | Chan Luu
The Horsebit Charm necklace by Chan Luu features its namesake gold-plated equestrian motifs along with quartz and pearl on an adjustable leather cord.
Braided Leather Charm Bracelet | Prada
A leather cord makes for a very modern take on a traditional charm bracelet—the braided leather charm bracelet by Prada features seaside motifs including a shell, starfish, seahorse, and pearl.
Abracadabra Necklace | Faraone Mennella
The star of the Abracadabra woven leather necklace is a showstopping 59-carat tourmaline, mounted in an airy setting that incorporates white diamonds.
Rockstars Cube Necklace | Solange
Aptly named Rockstar necklaces, Solange Azagury-Partridge’s irreverent design consists of a rock crystal vessel set holding multi-colored gemstones. Said vessel is set with diamonds and hangs from a leather cord. It’s available in two designs, with or without gems.
Fruit Leather | Irene Neuwirth
Irene Neuwirth’s “Fruit Leather” collection features a wide selection of stunning, generously sized stones on colorful leather cords. Each is one of a kind.