The 9 Most Extraordinary New Watches from Watches and Wonders in Geneva
From Vacheron Constantin to Van Cleef & Arpels, these are the timepieces that caused the biggest stir at the annual show
Last month, more than 50 of the world’s premier watch brands gathered in Geneva to present their new offerings at the annual Watches and Wonders fair. Designs spanned the gamut from sport watches with high-performance materials to mind-boggling complications to elaborately jeweled and decorated confections. Below, discover the standouts.
1. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R
Patek Philippe gave its retro-modern Ellipse a glow up in pink gold with a matching gold chain bracelet that is as smooth and supple as silk. The hand-polished, five-row bracelet perfectly complements the ebony sunburst dial appointed with rose gold hour-markers and slender hands.
2. IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar
IWC’s platinum Portugieser Eternal Calendar puts the perpetual calendar on steroids with a new 400-years gear that (theoretically) will automatically adjust for months of varying lengths and leap years until at least the year 3999 and a new moon phase that will remain accurate for the next 45 million years.
3. Rolex Perpetual 1908
In 2023, Rolex took watch lovers by surprise when it unveiled the Perpetual 1908, a vintage-inspired dress watch that oozes elegance. This year, it got dressed up in a platinum case paired with a stunning icy-blue dial engraved with a guilloché rice-grain motif.
4. Vacheron Constantin Yiqing Yin Égérie Editions
Vacheron Constantin collaborated with haute couture designer Yiqing Yin to create two Égérie designs in her favorite lilac hue. A unique concept piece, dubbed The Pleats of Time, features a mother-of-pearl dial adorned with a pleated pattern complemented by a textile strap embroidered with mother-of-pearl shards and infused with a custom fragrance. Its sister piece is a limited edition of 100 signed by Yiqing Yin.
5. Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech
Panerai is onboard with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team competing in this fall’s 37th America’s Cup race. A new fleet of Luna Rossa-themed models includes a 44mm Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa with a case made from Ti-Ceramitech, a novel navy blue material that is 44% lighter than steel and 10 times more fracture resistant than traditional ceramic.
6. Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir
First introduced in 1912, Cartier’s elegant Tortue (French for turtle) proves that great design is timeless. This year, the maison revisited its Deco-era Tortue Monopusher Chronograph in its Collection Privé, which revives archival icons. The limited edition is available in platinum or yellow gold, 200 pieces each, plus a diamond-set platinum version limited to 50 pieces.
7. Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde
Sometimes, less really is more. Parmigiani’s revived Toric collection brings a minimalist modern touch to the first watch that Michel Parmigiani designed in 1996. Available in platinum and rose gold, the new Toric offers an homage to the original with its knurled bezel inspired by Doric columns.
8. Hermès Cut
Hermès spent three years developing the design for its sporty Cut with a crisp circular dial within a rounded case and stylized Arabic numerals. Powered by an automatic movement, the Cut is available with or without diamonds in stainless steel and stainless steel and rose gold with interchangeable bracelets and colored rubber straps.
9. Van Cleef & Arpels The Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté
Van Cleef & Arpels flaunts its mastery of watchmaking’s decorative métiers d’art in its Extraordinary Dials collection. This year’s Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté depicts the house’s iconic fairy collecting blossoms in the morning sunlight with artistic crafts that include plique-à-jour enamel and façonné enamel, a new technique developed by the brand.