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Creative Minds

Creative Mind: Daniel Roseberry

The artistic director of Schiaparelli is pushing the boundaries of what couture can be

By Lucy Rees
Fashion model in an elaborate white gown with large gold earrings and bold red lipstick against a grey background.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

It’s been only two years since Daniel Roseberry was appointed the artistic director of Schiaparelli, but he has already made an indelible mark on the storied French brand. The Texas native presented one of the most headline-garnering collections during Paris Couture Week in January. Balancing the past with the present, it was a tribute to the experimental spirit of Elsa Schiaparelli. Thanks to her close friendship and collaboration with the likes of Salvador Dalí, Man Ray, and Jean Cocteau, the house boasts a treasure-filled archive of Surrealist jewelry, which Roseberry has looked to for inspiration since he took over. The resulting looks embodied strength and power over prettiness and whimsy.

Man in a dark hoodie with a beard looking at the camera against a neutral background.
Daniel Roseberry. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli.

The new guard: Head-turning creations included a hooded black silk dress with a metallic gold resin Madonna and Child breastplate and a molded-leather minidress complete with defined abs. “Who says what couture has to be?” wrote Roseberry in his collection notes. “I want to make an alternative couture house: Here, the fantasy isn’t princess dresses or polite garments; here, the fantasy is within.”

Person in a white dress with large ruffled collar and gold earrings, standing on a gray background.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Model in a gold and black zebra-patterned dress with matching earring, shown from the back against a plain background.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Technical know-how: Respecting the savoir faire that is haute couture, Roseberry highlights the skill of the artisan, particularly with intricate embroidery and embellishments. “The word magic is often used when discussing couture, and it is magical. But behind the magic is a human hand and a human dedication.”

Model in a black dress with an intricate gold and pearl design, featuring large earrings and bold red lipstick.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Fashion model in white outfit with gold lock accents, holding gold handbag, black hat and boots, striking a pose.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

Famous fan: Lady Gaga wore a custom-designed silk ball skirt, cashmere jacket, and golden dove brooch from the brand to this year’s presidential inauguration. s

Model in brown sculpted leather dress with matching bag and black boots, standing against a shadowed background.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Model in black outfit with gold embellishments, large earrings, and a wide-brim hat standing on a white background.
A look by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli’s spring 2021 haute couture collection. Photo: Courtesy of Schiaparelli

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A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2021 Spring Issue under the headline “Creative Minds.” Subscribe to the magazine.